How is a deck board cut? Instructions for installation of decking boards wpk (decking "dekin-standard" and "dekin-prestige"). Finishing the facade with a terrace board

WPC structures are very different from ordinary wood in terms of strength and resistance to external environmental factors. The wood composite also does not rot and cannot be damaged by pests such as fungus, insects, etc., which makes the maintenance of the material impossibly simple.

Installation of a terrace board can be carried out even without the help of specialists, the main thing is that the necessary tools are available.

Preparation for installation and rules of work

Before proceeding with the direct installation, it is recommended to put the wood-polymer composite for two days where the repair will be carried out. This action is necessary so that the WPC is at the same temperature with the future environment. It is highly not recommended to carry out any installation work in winter, at temperatures below zero division.

In order for the material to be well ventilated and serve many times longer, small indentations should be made between the coating and the base at a level of 2-3 centimeters.

Before mounting the deck board in dirty areas where there is sand, grass, earth, they must be thoroughly cleaned. The base for the composite is best concrete, and the components are certified.

When installing a composite decking board, there is no special meaning for the sides, however, you can choose which one will be laid on top, smooth or corrugated.

Arrangement of logs and surfaces for flooring boards

Mounting Tools:

• Logs 40*27 mm
• Staples (initial and intermediate)
• Self-tapping screws
• end strips
• Stubs
• corners
• Level
• Roulette, pencil
• Screwdriver
• Drill
• Drill

Foundation preparation

To maximize the life of the wood-polymer composite, good drainage is essential. The concrete base for laying needs at least 10 centimeters thick. For a trouble-free withdrawal of precipitation, it is desirable to make a slight slope (1-2 degrees will be enough) parallel to the lags. After the concrete has dried, check if the water is running. Otherwise, the liquid will begin to accumulate, create unnecessary trouble. If the base design does not need to install a log along the course of the drain, then leave small spaces between the logs (2-3 centimeters will be enough). Water will flow through it.

Watch the video, step-by-step work on laying the decking board:

When installing a wood-polymer composite on a roof, take a closer look at the water-resistant layer. Fasteners should have minimal contact with it. If the base was already prepared and the drain path was not followed, cut channels 2 centimeters deep.

Installation lag

Using anchor bolts, install the log on the concrete base. The maximum distance between two lags is 40 centimeters. Keep an expansion gap between the obstacle (wall, threshold, etc.) so that the material can expand in the warm season.

When installing the log in a diagonal position or at an oblique angle (1 degree of inclination is not taken into account), the distance between the pair must be reduced to 25 millimeters.

Please note: it is forbidden to use logs or WPC as a supporting structure!

Installation

The installation of decking decking is quite simple and obvious:

1. The board is placed on the log
2. The initial clip is placed on the log with a self-tapping screw
3. The WPC is inserted into the groove of the clip.

Each next decking is mounted in the same way. If you reach the point where the length of the boards is less than 0.8 meters, it is recommended to stabilize the structure using at least three support logs. The edges should not go beyond the level of the lag by more than 5 centimeters. The distance between the WPC and the barrier should not be less than 10 millimeters. Otherwise, with temperature changes, the material will expand, rest against the barrier and deform.

We watch the video, mounting the board on the logs, detailed instructions:

If you have plans for mounting a terrace board for a large terrace, you have already purchased long boards, make sure that the ends of both sides rest on the log and are well secured with clips. Do not forget about the gap between them.

Completion of installation

After the installation of the larch terrace board is completed, and all the elements are well fixed, it is worth taking care of the little things that will smooth out all the existing “jambs” and give the structure a more attractive look.

Watch the video, the tips of the masters:

The first step is to deal with the stubs. Installing end caps will give the structure a more harmonious look and close all the cracks at the edges.

If you consider it unnecessary to buy special plugs, you can get by with a cheaper option - end strips. Planks can be easily matched to any color. The strips and plugs are fixed with self-tapping screws.

Another option for hiding gaps after installing a WPC decking board is a composite corner. It is very similar in design to the plinth. But do not forget about the gap compensation when installing them. When using elements of this type, a little more clearance should be left between the barrier and the end of the board.

After installing the plugs, remove chips, dust and other elements, wipe the surface of the coating with a slightly damp cloth.

Please note: improper assembly and operation of terrace boards greatly reduces their service life. An ordinary board with proper care will last more than 25 years.

Terrace boards in most cases are painted with high quality pigments. Due to the use of lingin, like any natural product, they will slightly lose color in 3-4 months, but they will remain the same original and textured. After this time, the color will remain and will no longer succumb to the weakening of color for many years.

Buy components from one manufacturer

Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite, after installation by a professional, resists bad weather, sun, precipitation, insects very well. No special care is required for this technique.

The rough side of the material is not able to drive a rolling pin or anything else into the leg. Wood with building material is used as flour, and wood textures are created artificially.

Advantages

• Persistence. WPC tolerates scratches, chips, household chemicals, stains, precipitation, warm and cold air, water, etc. well.
• Strength. The floor of this material can withstand a weight of one ton per square meter. So much strong structure was achieved by modifying the composition of the material.
• Durability. The minimum guaranteed life span is 25 years, taking into account temperature conditions within -50 + 70 degrees.
• Flexibility. During installation, the wood-polymer composite can easily take the desired position. To sheathe stairs, ledges, corners, etc.
• Care. There is no need to paint the material or clean them with special tools. They are perfectly cleaned with a slightly damp sponge or microfiber.
• Simplicity. Easy installation, which even a person who has never held a construction tool can handle.
• Appearance. A huge palette of colors and texture solutions can satisfy gourmets with a broad design outlook.

And among the huge number of pluses, there is at least a small, but minus. In this case, the disadvantage is the high cost of the finishing material. If we compare decking and ordinary wood, then the difference in price can be 3-5 times.

Care rules

The composite board must not be flooded for more than 4 consecutive days.

When washing serious stains that will not be wiped with a regular floor cloth, use cleaning products without bleach. Brushes can only be used with soft bristles. Absolutely avoid the use of spatulas and metal, as there is a chance to damage the surface and spoil the appearance.

Small bumps or scratches can be rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper.

Conclusion

Any person who knows how to hold a tool can cope with the installation of a terrace board, but it is necessary to observe the gaps and take into account the placement of additional devices. Do not forget to hide the cracks after installation. The cladding of the walls of the site is perfect for those who so lack nature around them, and always want to be in an atmosphere that creates relaxation and tranquility.

It is easy to use, but it is a mistake to think that it can be sawn and drilled like any wood. WPC material differs from wood because it is made from a wood-polymer composite, meaning it consists of ground wood and a purified polymer. It is for this reason that decking differs from many other tree species in its hardness.

So it can be difficult to cut WPC with ordinary discs. Standard wood has lower rates not only of hardness, but also of resistance. So, how to cut a decking board and can it be cut at all?

If we talk about tools for working with decking boards, then the choice depends entirely on the quality of the material, climatic conditions and just working moments.

Cutting decking boards, of course, is real, but it's not so easy. Some masters of their craft will be able to cut out even a curly shape from decking. But not everyone involved in home construction is the same professionals. So, in order to successfully cut WPC deckings and logs, you need to purchase special accessory tools:

• circular saw, electric jigsaw;
• saw with small teeth;
• hard alloy discs and drills;
• standard accessories like hammer, drill, screwdriver, etc.

Most of these tools are available to anyone who loves to furnish their home. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the choice of discs for cutting and drilling.

This is worth knowing: each sawn piece of decking reduces its length by three millimeters.

Preparing deck boards for cutting

Before proceeding to and, directly, to cutting, it is necessary that the boards go through acclimatization. To do this, you need to leave the boards unpacked on the street, moreover, in the same place where the installation will take place.

This will reduce the likelihood that the boards are deformed at the end of the installation. It is important to consider that acclimatization should take place at a temperature of 5 to 25 degrees, for 1-2 days. Moisture, for example, rain, should not get on the boards during this period.

Before starting work, it is the logs that will be used in the supporting structure that are cut. If suddenly there are lags from the WPC, then it is usually recommended to drill holes there in advance. You need to drill holes on the log with a drill.

You can not use a screwdriver to drill lags. Because in this way the lag can simply be overheated, because of which it will deteriorate.

It is necessary to fix the logs under a slight slope, as well as, in fact, the terrace boards themselves. A slope of 1-2 degrees is necessary so that rainwater flows from the stairs.

Sometimes terrace boards are mounted to the joists, bypassing the connecting clip. To do this, you need to make holes in the boards. In order not to complicate your task, it is important to do this in advance.

And here's a little trick: it is better to make the diameter of the holes in the terrace boards a little smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. In this way, it is possible to avoid violation of the tightness of the fasteners. This will also save time during installation.

When fastening decking boards, the fasteners should not be tightened too tightly, but should not be left loose. It is better to twist it with medium force. Because cracks can occur due to rigid fasteners. A loose fastener will contribute to the rapid loosening of the structure.

Terrace board in our TerraDream online store:

It should immediately be said what a DPC is. Wood-polymer composite or decking is a material with a high percentage of wood content that can be processed well. It can be easily sawn, planed, nails are hammered into it without effort and self-tapping screws are screwed in.

Wood-polymer composite is distinguished by its strength. It does not rot, fungi and insects do not damage it, so it is very easy to care for it.

Should be considered

WPC is often used for outdoor decking equipment. After installation in two or three weeks, the composite board will change its color and become lighter by half a tone, a maximum of a tone, but then in the process of use, the color will not change for many years.

The rough side of the material cannot injure the leg or arm.

Installation of the WPC can be done by a person even without special skills.

Preparing for installation

1. Step one - prepare the base. It is best to make it from concrete with a thickness of at least 10 cm. It should be remembered that in order to avoid problems in the operation of this type of coating, well and technically well-made drainage is necessary. The base should have a slope of 1-2 degrees.
2. Step two. Wood-polymer composite before laying for 2 - 3 days must be brought into the room where it will be mounted. Experts strongly do not recommend the installation of a WPC in the cold season, when the air temperature is below zero degrees.
3. Next step. If the areas where the installation of the composite is planned are contaminated, then it is necessary to remove dust, sand, earth.
4. The WPC has two sides - smooth and embossed. On which side to lay the coating is up to you.
5. You will need a special tool for laying wood-plastic composite, which should be purchased in advance. It will make the installation process easier.
6. Logs should be installed on a concrete base at a distance of 40 cm, no more.

Direct installation of the WPC

As already noted, the installation of a wood-polymer composite is simple and will not be difficult even for a beginner.

Be sure to keep in mind that the ends of long boards must necessarily rest on the logs and a gap must be left between them. With temperature differences, this will avoid deformation of the WPC.

The decking is settled on the log and fastened with a clip, with the next board, carry out the same operation. Upon completion of the installation of the board, install the end caps.

According to manufacturers, one of the most important advantages of composite decking is ease of installation. However, in practice, it turns out that when working, including strictly according to the instructions, one or another error is almost always made. And any flaws, as you know, eventually lead to the appearance of defects and damage to the finishing material.

From a mixture of wood flour, polymers and pigments, composite floorboards are produced, designed to form flooring on terraces, adjacent areas, garden and park paths, around pools, etc.

WPC is made on the basis of polyethylene, polypropylene or other PVC-forming components. Moreover, the higher the percentage of wood content, the better and more expensive the finished coating. IN virtues material:

At the production stage, pigment is added to the mass, so the decking is already tinted. This greatly facilitates the choice of coverage.

But it must be taken into account that any polymer-containing material laid in the open air turns yellow over time and loses its color saturation under the influence of direct sunlight. This applies to both cheap products and premium products. The only difference is that WPC from a well-known manufacturer, due to the use of expensive raw materials, will last much longer in an unchanged state than its cheap counterparts from a small-town workshop.

In addition to this, in cons polymer terrace board:

• The instability of the material to damage, the formation of dents, chips;
• Own coefficient of change in geometric dimensions, which is why during installation it is necessary to use only original components (logs or lining beams made of WPC, brackets, etc.). For example, wooden slats cannot be used as supporting elements, since the expansion index of materials is different, durable fixation will not work.
• The need to equip the foundation of concrete, sand and gravel bedding and / or metal structures, organization of drainage and much more. Because of this, laying a WPC decking board is significantly more complicated;
• High material cost.

How to distinguish high-quality WPC from a fake? First of all, pay attention to the packaging. A serious manufacturer will provide full protection of products during transportation, so there is always a multilayer cardboard and a protective film. Each pack contains an insert with a description of the product and instructions on how to pack it correctly.

The next criterion is the condition of the slats. They should be even, symmetrical, without waves, bends. The surface is evenly dyed, smooth to the touch, without burrs or swelling. There should be no deformed areas, irregularities, color variations, extraneous inclusions.

When choosing, the seller is obliged to draw the buyer's attention to the operational index of the product (similar to the load classes of laminate, LVT tiles and linoleum). WPC is available in three categories:

• Home- for domestic use (adjoining territories, balconies, podiums, gazebos);
• professional– objects of commercial purpose (restaurants, hotels, decks around swimming pools, playgrounds, etc.);
• Expert- designed for areas that are characterized by serious foot traffic (city parks, recreation areas, commercial and commercial facilities).

And the last - when buying high-quality products, certificates of compliance with Russian standards, fire safety and a sanitary and hygienic conclusion are provided. All documents must be valid, have several seals, including blue - from the seller.

Tools and materials required for the installation of the WPC

To lay a deck board, you will need:

• Building materials for laying the base: bulk materials (SGW, gravel, crushed stone, sand), concrete for pouring the foundation, concrete blocks, paving slabs, adjustable supports and other means for forming the base for laying;
• Geotextile or roofing material to prevent the growth of weeds under the flooring;
• Special pipes for drainage;
• A set of WPC-lag, initial and finishing guides, fasteners, rubber "pillows" and other fittings;
• Drill;
• Circular saw or grinder;
• Hydraulic level;
• Screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Mallet.

Installation of WPC terrace board

Work does not begin with leveling the base. Experienced craftsmen recommend that you first carefully prepare for work. And the first thing should be the plan-project.

Therefore, the process of laying a decking board is as follows:

Drawing up a laying scheme

For an accurate calculation of the required number of terrace floorboards and accessories, as well as the choice of the optimal solution, form a drawing. It is better, of course, to use special programs that each dealer has, but you can draw a scale diagram on paper yourself. After all, installation does not need to be done strictly perpendicular or parallel to the walls, other enclosing structures. You can also make diagonal laying at an angle of 30 ° or more. An important point is to take into account the correct interval between lags in the calculations:

The distance between the lags also depends on the width of the board and its fullness. If the planks are full-bodied, an interval of 50 cm can be made. Hollow ones with such a gap will spring, sag, so the maximum distance between the support beam is up to 40 cm, for floorboards up to 22 mm wide - no more than 30 cm.

The choice is important mounting method:

Foundation preparation

The base must be clean, strong, dry, even and frost-resistant. You can not just lay the planks on the ground or asphalt. There should be a gap under the flooring for air circulation, as well as for the flow of melt or rain water.

The basis for the flooring can be varied. Including:

• Concrete screed with a thickness of 8 cm or asphalt with a mandatory slope of 1 cm per linear meter (or 1 - 1.5 °) from static buildings or structures. Potholes, pits, loose areas are not allowed. If the base is already ready, and there is no slope, you can cut grooves 3 cm wide and up to 1.5 cm deep in the concrete at an angle.
• Sand-gravel or crushed stone-sand "cushion", which is formed by vibrotamping the soil, followed by backfilling of bulk materials and their compaction. The total base layer is 8-10 cm. Geotextiles or roofing material can be laid over the prepared base to prevent weeds from sprouting. Then, with a gap of 40-60 cm, support beams or concrete slabs, metal profiles with an anti-corrosion coating, paving slabs with a size of at least 20x20x3 cm are laid. It is on this basis that the frame will be installed in the future.

The formation of surface drainage during the installation of decking on the ground is a prerequisite. To do this, you need to dig a drainage channel from the site in the ground, line it with geotextiles, lay special pipes with holes along the entire length, fill it with rubble and sand, cover it with soil.

Special adjustable rigid PVC feet that have been designed for mounting the deck on asphalt, concrete and other hard surfaces.

Adjustable supports for the frame made of WPC.

Formation of the support frame

Two days before the start of work, the WPC must be brought to the site and folded horizontally. The recommended temperature during installation is from +5 to +30 °С.

Unfold the kit, which includes:

The log frame is laid with a minimum clearance of 10 mm from the vertical enclosing structures (walls, sidewalks, columns, etc.). The beams are laid out on the surface at a pre-calculated interval, holes are drilled in each in increments of 50-100 cm, then hardware is screwed in. Some manufacturers recommend fixing the lining beam with metal perforated mounting tape or steel corners.

Laying boards

Note that decking is unidirectional. That is, during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the lamellas lie in the same direction in order to avoid some “banding” of the flooring. Some manufacturers draw arrows on the ends of the floorboards for this.

Laying starts from a wall or other fixed structure. The starting element (clip, corner) is fixed on the log using self-tapping screws. The first board is installed in it and slightly knocked out with a rubber mallet. The next mounting component (bracket or terminal) is fixed with a hardware on the other side of the initial bar, then the second lamella is attached and knocked out. Remember that the floorboards must be attached to each support point on the underlayment.

The edge of the decking should not protrude beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. If necessary, the ends are cut with a circular saw. And the recommended thermal compensation intervals between the bars are shown in the diagram below.

If the decking is mounted in a heated room, then it is allowed to install the lamellas end-to-end. Corner connection can be made in two ways: diagonally with trimming and by attaching.

Corner joint of WPC boards.

After installing the last board, the final profile or corner is mounted to it, and the ends of the boards are decorated with plugs.

The final touch is washing the flooring surface with water to remove dust and sawdust. The terrace is ready for full use.

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Do not use a terrace board (WPC) as a permanent significant load-bearing structures!!!

To install a decking board (decking) you will need:

Electric jigsaw, carbide-tipped circular saw, drill, screwdriver/driver, level, pencil, ruler or tape measure.

Accessories:

Additional information about the terrace board (decking):

Terrace board withstands evenly distributed load up to 600 kg/sq.m. Laying the board at temperatures below 0°C is not recommended. 24 hours before installation, WPC products should be placed near the installation site to adapt to the environment. Check each board carefully before installation. The warranty does not apply to a board damaged prior to installation or mounted in violation of these instructions. Products made of wood-polymer composite have a single color throughout the entire depth of the product. Under the influence of sunlight and the environment, natural fading is possible while maintaining the main tone, which is not a defect, and is inherent in any products made of wood.

1. Surface preparation for mounting:

Logs made of wood-polymer composite can be placed on the following types of surfaces:

• on a solid, even and hard (reinforced) surface (for example, on a concrete screed) without potholes and cracks, with a slope of 1 ° -2 ° towards the drainage system to remove moisture. In this case, the logs should be placed longitudinally to the slope, so as not to contribute to the retention of moisture (Fig. 1).
• on concrete support beams cast into the ground, or on concrete tiles. The supporting surface of the concrete base should be at least 30x30 cm in size, with the distance between the two nearest supports, on which one log is located, not more than 30-40 cm, while the distance between two adjacent logs should also not exceed 30-40 cm. The log should not come into contact with the ground. If necessary, it is possible to lay a film (geotextile, bituminous carpet) to prevent weeds from growing through the expansion gaps of the flooring (Fig. 2).
• if you want to lay the decking on a surface that excludes violation of its tightness (that is, in the conditions of the impossibility of attaching the log to the surface with self-tapping screws), it is possible to equip a rigid frame made of metal (pipe, wood or other solid material) on legs with a wide base and rubber linings under them.
• on supporting beams made of wood or metal. The base must be strong, even and frost-resistant. The distance between the support beams should not exceed 400-500 mm.

Fig.1	Fig.2

2. Installation of log from WPC:

• the use of a WPC log when installing a terrace board on any of the bases specified in paragraph 1 of this manual will prevent damage to the flooring surface, since the WPC log absorbs the negative impact on the board caused by deformation of the base material under the influence of climatic and temperature factors
• support logs should not be too long (no more than 3000 mm), which ensures the stability of the flooring when weather and temperature conditions change.
• the entire flooring must be well ventilated, for which it is necessary to maintain a gap between the flooring and the mounting surface (ground) of at least 3 cm.
• support logs should be installed at the same level, the distance between the logs is 300-400 mm. (Fig. 3) Fasten the lag directly to the base using self-tapping screws with plastic dowels. When laying the decking obliquely (at an angle of 45°), the distance between the joists should be halved. At the joints of the ends of the decking profile, it is necessary to lay a double row of support logs so that each end of the board rests on its own support log. The width of the gap between the rows of support logs should be 3-5 mm. (fig.4)
• logs should be installed with a small gap at the ends - 3-5 mm.
• in places where the WPC board is installed next to the wall (curbs, fences, pipes, and other fixed limiters), the gap between the edge of the surface of the supporting log and the board should be at least 25 mm. (Fig.5).

Fig.3
Fig.4	Fig.5

3. Mounting the board on the logs:

• boards are laid perpendicular to the logs.
• installation of the first row of boards is carried out using a starting clamp. Subsequent rows of boards are mounted using a T-shaped plastic clamp, which provides an even, stable thermal seam of approximately 5 mm. Fastening the joist to the mounting base and attaching the T-shaped plastic clamp to the joist should take into account the possible expansion of the wood-polymer profile and should not be excessively tight (Fig. 6). In addition, too much tightening of the screws reduces the tensile strength and may cause subsequent damage.
• when mounting the decking, it is recommended to use stainless steel self-tapping screws.
• when installing, it is necessary to observe end thermal gaps of 3-5 mm between the boards (Fig. 4).
• the board in length should not protrude beyond the last row of support logs by more than 1 cm.
• When laying the last row of boards, where the edge cannot be fixed with a clamp, it is allowed to screw in a self-tapping screw on the side of the main profile of the board at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
• Do not glue boards together.

Fig.6	Fig.7

4. After mounting the decking, an end plate is attached to the support joists (Fig. 7).

When laying decking at ground level, it is advisable to provide a delimiting stone border, etc., in order to avoid a direct junction of the decking with the lawn or soil.

Material consumption rate:

Consumption rates for a standard installation of 1 sq.m.
Terrace board - 6.9 m.
Mounting lag - 3.3 m.
Kleimer plastic T-shaped - 20 pcs., kleimer starting 3 pcs.
Self-tapping screws - 26 pcs.
We recommend taking into account the material margin of 5%.

Rules for storing decking (decking) and caring for it:

When storing the decking and when unloading at the installation site, make sure that the boards are stacked on a flat surface.

Do not allow free movement on the surface of the decking tool or other accessories that could damage the surface.

Avoid contact of the decking surface with construction debris.

If the flooring is dirty, it is possible to carry out both dry cleaning and wet cleaning with the use of cleaning agents (with the exception of alkaline and abrasive agents). In both cases, a soft brush can be used.