Providing water supply to the house. What is the best way to install water supply in a private house? Connection diagram to the central water supply

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In recent years, the race for the cheapest prices in the real estate market has intensified. Buyers, in order to save money, began to increasingly choose plots without connected communications. What does this mean? And what should you be prepared for if you are planning to buy (or have purchased) such a plot? Let's look at it further in this article.

Price for connecting electricity and light

Nowadays, life is not comfortable without basic things: heat, electricity, water.

With some functions of the future home, for example, sewerage can be saved by building a septic tank and other autonomous devices, water can be obtained from a well (if groundwater allows it, of course), television can actually be connected via a satellite dish, and the Internet can be mobile..

But all this makes no sense without electricity; you need to be prepared for these expenses in any case.

You can connect a private household to electrical networks both at the construction stage and after the house is built.

To do this, the owner must draw up and submit an application to a local organization that deals with issues of connecting to electrical networks. Along with the application, you need photocopies of documents certified by a notary office:

A state act approving the right of ownership of a plot and a house;
Passport with TIN code;
A plan with a scale that specifies where the power grid will be located and how much electricity will be consumed.

Electricity connection cost consists of technological costs, the price of electrical equipment and the cost of supplying electricity to households. In total, this will all cost the owner at least 100-150 thousand rubles. The final price will depend on the homeowner’s ability to negotiate with all services involved in electrical networks.

The rules that regulate the technological connection to electrical networks stipulate the cost of supplying electricity to the facility. With a power below 15 kW, connecting the electrical wiring will cost only 550 rubles.

In this case, there should be only half a meter distance between the electrical input and the house. If the parameters are higher, the cost increases.

In addition, you must additionally pay for the installation of a purchased ready-made switchboard, electrical cable and the services of a master electrician.

Approximate prices for approval to connect electricity:

Submission of documentation to the power grid organization (without acceleration) - from 5,000 rubles.
Drawing up a simplified electrical circuit - from 5,000 rubles.
Coordination in various authorities - from 10,000 rubles.
Drawing up an electrical project (without approval) - 5,000 rubles.
Electrical project with approval from various authorities - from 15,000 rubles.
Drawing up an agreement with the distribution network, approval, etc. - from 40,000 rubles.
If a person connected illegally and then wants to legalize the connection - 80,000 rubles.
Installation of equipment - from 25,000 rubles.
Work with estimates - from 3000 rubles.

How much does it cost to install plumbing?

In order to carry out the tie-in, the owner must first develop and approve a water supply project.

Even at this stage, the owner of the property must pay from 3 to 5 thousand rubles. Documentation may cost even more as prices increase from time to time.

The cost of tapping into the water supply system is again individual. Usually it costs around 5,000 rubles.

After obtaining permission, you should coordinate the work with gas, electric, and telephone organizations that provide their services. Each specialist must be paid from 500 rubles to 2-3 thousand.

At a further stage, it is necessary to purchase pipes, installation and various parts necessary for the plumbing system. Approximately for these purposes you should have about 60-65 thousand rubles.

Among other things, the homeowner needs to pay for the services of a specialist who will carry out the plumbing. There are no strict prices for services. They are influenced by a number of factors, ranging from the degree of complexity of the work to the distance that separates the home from the main water supply system.

If a homeowner wants to drill a well on his property, then he must pay about 1.5-2 thousand rubles for each meter. In general, to have your own well with artesian water, a person must pay from 100 thousand rubles.

So, if in the village there is water pipes, total costs for connection to networks will be minimum 80 thousand rubles. If you plan to drill an artesian well on the site, in this case everything is individual: it can cost 200 thousand or 700 thousand rubles!

Cost of sewerage

In recent years, sewerage systems have been installed to improve suburban settlements. If it is necessary to carry out sewerage, you can solve the problem in several ways:

resort to the services of a specialized company;
hire a self-employed plumber;
self-installation.

The cost of installing a sewer system consists of a number of components:

Design documentation is being developed.
The number of floors is taken into account (if there are several floors, the amount increases significantly);
They look at how many points are connected to the sewer. They connect bathtubs, sinks, swimming pools, Jacuzzis, toilets, etc.

Minimum price of sewerage equipment for a one-story house with one toilet, two sinks and a shower will be not less than 60-65 thousand rubles.

To develop a sewerage project, it is better to contact specialized services. In this case, you won’t have to worry that the installation will be done correctly and in the shortest possible time.

By independently connecting an autonomous sewer system, you can save a lot, but in this case there is a high risk of violating building codes and encountering system malfunctions during operation.

Additionally, you can solve the issue of installing a sewer system by installing a storm sewer with drainage. But how much such a system costs cannot be answered unambiguously. When making calculations, the properties of the soil species, cost and volume of work are taken into account. And the connection to the storm drain is not cheap and will cost about 500 thousand rubles.

If the village has a centralized sewer system, then connecting it to it will also require money. In this case, prices are set by the administration. Prices for insertion can cost hundreds of thousands of rubles.

Cost of gas supply and connection

Gas is considered the best option for heating country houses. Compared to electric heating, savings on payments in winter can reach several times.

The presence of gasification of the site has many advantages:

gas equipment can be used for a long time;
no combustion products;
waste does not accumulate;
economically advantageous price than that of electrical networks;
environmental friendliness and safety, if certain rules are followed during operation;
heating, stove, gas water heater and other appliances are connected to gas.

It costs from 150,000 rubles to supply gas to the site.

But this is just the beginning. Since the cost of organizing gas supply to a country house is influenced by a number of different factors.

What affects the cost of connecting to gas:

Availability of free capacity. If it is necessary to bring additional gas capacity to the site, the cost of gas supply becomes significantly larger;
How much force does gas press inside gas pipeline systems and pipes?. If a lack of pressure is detected, it is necessary to install additional stations or loop the gas pipeline. All this work is paid for by the applicant. The cost varies from 500 thousand to 1 million rubles;
Gas pipeline capacity. 63 mm or 100 mm pipes are supplied to the objects. If necessary, entire pieces of gas pipelines are replaced. All this significantly increases the money spent;
How far is the object from the gas pipe?. If the pipe runs near the site, it will cost significantly less;
How deep are gas networks?. If the soil is rocky, then more technically sophisticated equipment should be used to lay pipes;
What gas volume is needed?. If the gas pipe is connected only to the stove, then the connection will require less money than when connecting a gas water heater and other equipment to the system. As gas consumption increases, the cost of connection will be higher.
Worn-out infrastructure. The newer the infrastructure, the less financial resources will be spent.
What materials were the pipes made from?.

conclusions

To improve your site and home, it is necessary to install sewerage and communication systems. It is better to start the installation process after completing documentation and agreements with various organizations.

Advice: If you have not yet bought a plot without communications, before doing so, calculate and weigh all the pros and cons. How much more money might you need? Will you really be able to save money? It may make sense to consider another purchase option.

If you already own a plot of land without communications, we advise you to do everything gradually. It is impossible to embrace the immensity. If it is impossible to install all communication systems and sewer systems at once, then this should be done sequentially.

First, electrical networks are installed, since at further stages welding will be carried out, which is impossible without electricity. At the next stage, water and sewerage should be installed, and everything should be completed with gasification of the property.

Water supply to a house is an objective condition for the normal living of its residents. SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Rate of water consumption by consumers” regulates water consumption in the range from 80 to 230 liters. per day per resident. Consumption depends on the availability of centralized water supply, sewerage, bath or shower, the presence of a water heating column and other factors.

In multi-storey and communal buildings this issue is resolved by connecting to the central water supply system. For a private country house or cottage, you have to provide your own water supply.

Of course, once you can bring water from an external source in the amount of needs it will not be difficult. But how to provide water to a family for a long time?

This article will help solve this problem, in which the types of water supply, diagrams, systems and methods of their construction are structured in detail. The nuances of doing the main types of work with your own hands are also indicated.

Types and methods of water supply to a private home

From the perspective of the dependence of the water supply source on external factors, two fundamentally different types of water delivery to the user can be distinguished:

Centralized water supply at home

In essence, the same autonomous, but within the region. In this case, the user does not need to worry about arranging a source of water. All you need to do is connect (cut into) the central water main.

Connecting the house to the central water supply

All actions come down to the step-by-step implementation of a number of requirements, including:

contacting the regional utility organization MPUVKH KP "Vodokanal" (Municipal Enterprise "Water Supply and Sewerage Management"), which controls the central main;

obtaining technical characteristics of the insert. The document contains data on the location of connection of the user's pipe system to the main line and its depth. In addition, the diameter of the main pipes is indicated there and, accordingly, instructions for choosing home pipe distribution. The water pressure indicator (guaranteed water pressure) is also indicated here;

receive an estimate for connection, which is developed by a utility or contractor;

control the execution of work. Which are also usually performed by UPKH;

perform system testing.

Advantages of central water supply: convenience, simplicity.

Disadvantages: fluctuations in water pressure, questionable quality of incoming water, dependence on central supplies, high cost of water.

Autonomous water supply at home

You can independently provide water supply to your dacha, private or country house using an autonomous water supply. In essence, this is an integrated approach that includes measures for installing a water supply system, starting with providing a source of water supply, ending with its discharge into the sewer system.

An autonomous water supply system can be presented in the form of two component subsystems:

water delivery: imported, groundwater, from an open source;

supply to points of consumption: gravity, using a pump, with the installation of a pumping station.

Therefore, in a generalized form, two water supply schemes can be distinguished: gravity (storage container with water) and automatic water supply.

Using a container (water tank)

The essence of the autonomous water supply scheme for a house is that water is supplied to the tank using a pump or poured manually.

Water flows to the user by gravity. After all the water in the tank has been used, it is filled again to the maximum possible level.

This method is supported by its simplicity; it is suitable if water is needed from time to time. For example, in a country house that is not visited often or in a utility room.

This water supply arrangement, despite its simplicity and low cost, is too primitive, inconvenient and, moreover, creates a significant weight on the interfloor (attic) floor. As a result, the system has not found widespread use and is more suitable as a temporary option.

Using an automatic water supply system

This diagram demonstrates the functioning of a fully autonomous water supply system for a private home. Water is supplied to the system and to the user using a system of components.

This is what we will talk about in more detail.

You can implement a completely autonomous water supply for a private home on your own by implementing one of the schemes. There are several device options to choose from:

1. Water from open sources

These can be surface sources: ponds, rivers, lakes. In some cases, such sources may be water purification systems. But in our country they are not yet widespread.

Important! Water from most open sources is not suitable for consumption. It can only be used for irrigation or other technical needs.

Obtaining water from an open source requires the creation of sanitary protection of water intake sites and is regulated by the provisions of SanPiN 2.1.4.027-9 “Zones of sanitary protection of water supply sources and drinking water pipelines.”

2. Water from underground sources: pools and aquifers

This water is, in most cases, suitable for consumption.

How to install water in a private house with your own hands

A step-by-step guide to choosing and installing water supply in a country cottage or country house from A to Z

The house water supply scheme consists of the following elements:

water source;
pipe system;
pump, hydraulic accumulator, automation relay;
filters;
fittings, valves, check valves and plumbing fixtures;
water heating equipment (for hot water supply);
sewerage

Element 1. Water source

When starting to ensure autonomous water supply, you should determine the source of water supply and equip it.

Among the subtypes of autonomous water supply with an underground source of water supply are:

1.1 ordinary well;

1.2 Abyssinian well;

1.3 well “for sand”;

1.4 artesian well.

The final choice will depend on the type and characteristics of the soil, the depth of the water, and the productivity of the water vein.

1.1 Regular well

A traditional well is preferred when the water vein is located at a depth of 4-15 m. These are the so-called interstratal water sources. In addition to the depth of occurrence, it is important to determine the productivity of the vein. The incoming water must be sufficient to meet the needs of the family and/or household. Using a well, you can ensure a water supply of 500 liters/day.

The undoubted advantages of the well are:

independence from electricity supplies. This way, in the event of a power outage, water can be collected using a bucket;
long service life (up to 50 years), which has been tested in practice;
low cost of work;
simplicity of the device.

It should be noted that due to the shallow depth of water intake, it may be of poor quality. This is due to the likelihood of groundwater entering the well. The well is also characterized by changes in water level.

Important! When setting up a well, you need to position it correctly in terms of distance from above-ground buildings. It should not be located close to buildings, the optimal distance is 5 m (this will prevent erosion of the foundation of the building). In this case, the distance to direct sources of pollution (gutter, toilet, other sources) must be at least 50 m.

To dig a well you need to perform a number of steps:

take a water sample;

Important! Before installing a well on your property, try your neighbors’ water, or better yet, have it analyzed. It may happen that the water will be unfit for consumption and all efforts will be in vain.

obtain a conclusion about the quality of the soil and the depth of the aquifer. In practice, wells are often dug “by eye”;

determine the place to dig a well. To do this, you can involve specialists and use special devices - indicator frames. And you can watch the dew for several months. The greatest accumulation of dew in a certain place indicates the proximity of water;

choose a building material for finishing the walls of the well (shaft). The following materials are most often used for these purposes:

Reinforced concrete rings, which are manufactured in factories or cast independently. Their diameter is 1-1.5 m.p., and the estimated service life is up to 50 years. The obvious advantage of using rings is the possibility of deepening up to 20 m, high speed and greater safety of work. In addition, rings are installed as work progresses;

Small-piece materials: brick, rubble stone. This material is only suitable for wells with a depth of no more than 3-4 m. Its use significantly increases the labor intensity of the work;

Treated logs. For finishing shaft wells, logs made of wood that are resistant to exposure to high humidity are suitable. These include oak, larch, and pine. The diameter of the logs must be at least 120 mm.

dig a well shaft. To reduce the cost of work, this is usually done manually. You can determine the dimensions of the shaft in this way: measure the diameter of the concrete circles, measure their thickness and add 10-15 cm to the backfill. Then, with a circle diameter of 1 m and a thickness of 10 cm, the diameter of the shaft will be 1.4 m. If you plan to use another material, for example, brick, then it is enough to indicate the desired diameter of the well and add two thicknesses of material to it;

finish the well - internal and external.

1.2 Abyssinian well

Water supply to a country house from an Abyssinian well or needle well is the easiest way to get water at minimal cost. To do this, just follow a number of steps:

check the water;
choose a place for a well;
hammer a needle hole;
install a check valve and pump (manual or automatic).

The reason for the increased popularity of wells is the purity of the incoming water, tightness, ease of drilling, the ability to connect a pump, and a long service life (up to 30 years), a significant amount of incoming water - more than 1000 l/day. Among the disadvantages are the shallow driving depth and dependence on the composition of the soil.

1.3 Sand well

In this case, water also comes from interstratal sources. A sand well makes it possible to obtain cleaner water, since the aquifers are located after the loam, which filters the water.

Thus, the well is used if the depth of the aquifer reaches 40 m.p.

The well has a shorter service life (up to 10 years) and can produce up to 50 cubic meters. water per day. The well is distinguished by ease of drilling and less soil excavation.

A detailed description of how to make a well with graphical visualization is presented in the video

1.4 Artesian well

Allows the use of water from significant depths. The depth of the well reaches 150 m, which allows you to obtain high quality water. The unlimited supply of water is also an argument in favor of an artesian well. At the same time, the service life of the well increases compared to the previous option to 50 years.

The method of drilling an artesian well is identical to the previous one. The only difference is that a mechanical drilling method is used: auger, rotary, core or percussion-rope. The well design is shown in the diagram.

Important! By law, artesian water is a strategic reserve of the state. Therefore, there is a need to register an artesian well.

Element 2. Pipes for water supply

Water supply cannot be organized without installing an extensive system of pipes, both external and internal, and a water tank.

Galvanized, polyethylene, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used for wiring.

Important! Using plastic pipes will prevent rust and leakage. They are also more convenient to give the desired shape. The estimated service life of a polypropylene pipe is 50 years.

External pipes are laid in the ground.

Important! The depth of pipe laying depends on the level of soil freezing (indicated in SNiPs; for central Russia the depth is about 1.5 m). The pipes are located below this value. In this case, the system is not in danger of freezing and, as a result, deformation.

Advice. To prevent water from stagnating in the pipe, it must be laid at an angle to the house.

Next, one end of the pipe is inserted into the house (for this, a hole is left in the foundation into which a steel pipe is placed. It will prevent deformation of the water supply pipe if the house shrinks). The second one is lowered into the well.

Element 3. Pump or pumping station for water supply

The pump can be installed in the house (basement or utility room)

Or it can be installed in a caisson or pit (directly above the well). The diagram shows the installation of a submersible pump and a surface pump in a caisson.

To get a caisson you need to dig a hole 2-3 m deep. Lay a sand-crushed stone cushion on the bottom and fill it with concrete. It is convenient to lay the walls with bricks. A pump is installed in the caisson, and the contour of the caisson is filled with concrete (layer about 0.4 m).

There are two types of pumps:

Submersible pumps. They plunge into water (well, borehole) and raise the water. For convenience, such pumps are equipped with automation, which allows you to pump water from your home.

Surface pumps. They are pumping stations equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and a relay.

The hydraulic accumulator performs the functions of a water tower.

Relay - regulates the pressure of the pumping station.

Operating principle of a surface pump

The principle of operation is as follows: the pump supplies water to the accumulator, which accumulates it. After the water is turned on in the house, the pressure in the system decreases. After reaching a critical level of 2.2 bar, the relay turns on, which in turn turns on the pump. The pump supplies water to the accumulator until the pressure is restored to 3 bar. After this, the relay turns off the pump.

You can select a pump based on the following data:

depth of water (bottom of a well or borehole);
height of water in the source shaft;
height of the water point;
volume of water consumed (m3).

The water intake pipe of the pump is lowered into the source. To avoid clogging of the pipe, filters are installed on its edge.

Important! The pipe is installed at a distance of 20-40 cm from the bottom (gravel cushion). The distance is determined by the height of the water at the source.

Advice. To prevent the pipe in a traditional well from moving, it must be secured to a special pin located at the bottom.

Element 4. Filters for the water supply system

Cleaning the water entering the pipe system is an important aspect of the water supply at home. Two types of filters are used for cleaning:

The first is installed on the edge of the pipe placed in the well. It purifies water from mechanical impurities;

The second is directly in the house and can be a complex multi-stage filter system. Water purification diagram in the figure.

Item 5. Fittings, valves and plumbing

These are the elements that are necessary for a hermetically sealed connection of pipes with each other and with other devices.

Important! To prevent system rupture and water leakage, try to use only high-quality shut-off valves.

Plumbing fixtures include: taps, waste tanks, water seals (siphons). You shouldn't skimp on their quality either.

Element 6. Water heating equipment

Will be needed if there is a need for hot water supply, i.e. almost always.

Important! To arrange hot water supply, it is necessary to provide a separate outlet to the heating device.

In this case, there are several options for choosing heating equipment:

double-circuit boiler. It will simultaneously heat water for heating and domestic needs;

single-circuit boiler. Designed exclusively for heating water for user needs. A boiler is required for such a boiler. In this case, the boiler can be storage or flow-through. In the first case, it becomes possible to heat a large volume of water;

electric storage water heater, allowing to satisfy the need for hot water of a significant number of users;

several instantaneous water heaters. They will heat water for each consumer individually. This system allows for more efficient use of electricity for heating water.

Element 7. Sewerage

Once the location for draining the used water has been determined, the process of arranging the water supply can be considered complete.

Water drainage is an essential component and the more water is consumed, the more it needs to be drained. This means we need to approach this stage responsibly. There are also two options here:

crash into the central sewer;

equip your own autonomous sewerage system. A septic tank or sedimentation tank is designed to collect water. Concrete and plastic septic tanks are shown in the photo. And their volume and quantity (total volume) depends on the amount of water consumed.

The video explains the rules for building a septic tank for a country house.

The water supply process from design to construction is shown in the video

Conclusion

As you can see, there are different water supply schemes for a private home, from simple to complex; accordingly, some will be cheaper, while others will be more expensive. Also, the cost of water supply is affected by the structural soundness, i.e. you will need a water supply device that operates periodically (temporarily) or year-round - in winter and summer. In any case, the implementation of each system is possible with your own hands, but requires knowledge and skills.

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

"Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

pumping unit for a well or borehole,
nipple (adapter),
preventing reverse,
pipeline,
filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
shut-off valves,
five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pipes).

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Plumbing a house from

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors at.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, pressure switch and, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about),
fine cleaning,
water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
A deep cleaning filter is connected;
Next comes a tee, from which the water supply pipes in a private house are divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which the water will go to a boiler or another for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing a water supply system into a private house with your own hands, the right one will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
32 mm for 50 l,
38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes made of various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.
If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.

In the private sector, located within the city, it is usually possible to install a water supply from a centralized network. However, in populated areas where there is initially no main pipeline, it is necessary to install autonomous systems from hydraulic structures in the areas. However, sometimes such a need arises when accessing the central network. This happens if large areas need to be watered in the summer, and the water bills are too high. In such cases, it is more profitable to build a well once. How to supply water to a house from a well or borehole?

In order to organize an uninterrupted supply of water to water collection points and ensure the required pressure, the water supply scheme must include the following elements:

hydraulic structure;
pump equipment;
hydraulic accumulator;
water treatment system;
automation: pressure gauges, sensors;
pipeline;
shut-off valves;
collectors (if necessary);
consumers.

Additional equipment may also be required: water heaters, irrigation systems, etc.

Features of choosing pumping equipment

For a stationary water supply system, submersible centrifugal pumps are most often chosen. They are installed in wells and boreholes. If the hydraulic structure is of small depth (up to 9-10 m), then you can purchase or. This makes sense if the well casing is too narrow and difficulties arise in choosing a submersible pump of the required diameter. Then only the water intake hose is lowered into the well, and the device itself is installed in a caisson or utility room.

Pumping stations have their advantages. These are multifunctional systems - pump, automation and hydraulic accumulator. Although the cost of the station is higher than that of a submersible pump, the system is ultimately cheaper because There is no need to separately purchase a hydraulic tank.

The most significant disadvantages of pumping stations are the loud noise during operation and limitations on the depth from which they can lift water. It is important to install the equipment correctly. If you make a mistake, it can become airy, which affects the stability of the water supply.

To organize the uninterrupted operation of the water supply system, in addition to pumps, hydraulic tanks and automatic control units are installed

When choosing a pumping station, you should correctly calculate the required power, productivity and buy equipment with high efficiency

There are cases when it is simply impossible to install a submersible pump and you have to install a surface or pumping station. For example, if the water level is insufficient to comply with the rules for installing deep-water equipment.

The pump must be installed so that there is a layer of water above it of at least 1 m, and 2-6 m remains to the bottom. This is necessary for good cooling of the electric motor and intake without sand and silt. Failure to comply with installation conditions will lead to rapid wear of the pump due to pumping contaminated water or burnout of the electric motor windings.

When choosing a submersible pump for a well, you need to pay attention to the type of design of the device. If a three-inch production pipe is installed, many well owners buy a cheap and reliable domestic pump "Malysh". The diameter of its body allows the device to be mounted even in narrow pipes. However, with all the advantages, “Kid” is the worst choice. This is vibration type equipment.

Constant engine vibration quickly destroys the production string. Savings on a pump can result in much larger expenses for drilling a new well or replacing the casing, which is comparable in cost and labor intensity to the construction of a hydraulic structure. Vibrating pumps are not suitable for narrow wells due to the design and operating principle. It's better to install a pumping station.

The deep-well pump is lowered into the well on a safety rope. If it is necessary to dismantle it, then it should also be lifted by the cable and under no circumstances should it be pulled by the water-lifting pipe

Hydraulic accumulator - guarantee of uninterrupted water supply

The presence of a hydraulic accumulator tank in the water supply system prevents many problems with the water supply to the house. This is a kind of analogue of a water tower. Thanks to the hydraulic tank, the pump operates with less load. When the tank is filled, the automation turns off the pump and turns it on only after the water level drops to a certain level.

The volume of the hydraulic tank can be any - from 12 to 500 liters. This allows for some water supply in case of a power outage. When calculating the volume of a hydraulic accumulator, it is taken into account that, on average, approximately 50 liters are needed to meet the water needs of one person. About 20 liters are taken from each water collection point every day. Water consumption for irrigation should be calculated separately.

There are two types of hydraulic accumulators - membrane and storage. The first ones are usually small in volume, equipped with a pressure gauge and a check valve. The task of such a hydraulic tank is to provide the required pressure in the water supply. Storage tanks are much larger in volume. When full, they can weigh up to a ton.

Volumetric tanks are mounted in attics, so when designing a water supply system, you should foresee in advance the need to strengthen building structures and consider thermal insulation for the winter period. The volume of water in the storage tank is sufficient so that in case of a power outage there will be enough water for at least a day.

There are many designs of hydraulic accumulators. Depending on the location, you can choose a vertical or horizontal model

HDPE pipes - a simple and reliable solution

On sale you can still find water pipes made of any materials - steel, copper, plastic, metal-plastic. Increasingly, owners of country houses prefer HDPE pipes (made of low-density polyethylene). They are not inferior in quality to metal ones, but do not freeze, burst, rust, or rot.

High-quality HDPE pipes can last up to half a century. Due to their low weight, standardized connecting and fastening elements, they are relatively easy to install. This is an ideal option for an autonomous water supply system, and every year more and more home owners choose it. Typically, pipes with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm are purchased for water supply.

Polyethylene is elastic. It stretches and contracts depending on the ambient temperature. Thanks to this, it retains strength, tightness and original shape.

Laying the outer part of the pipeline

When constructing a water pipeline, it is necessary to ensure that the pipeline is connected to the water-lifting pipe below the freezing level of the soil. The best option is installation via a pitless adapter.

This is a simple and cheap device designed specifically for removing pipes from the production string of a well. How to equip a well with a pitless adapter is described in detail in the video:

If for some reason it is impossible to connect via the adapter, you will have to build a pit or install a caisson. In any case, the connection to the pipeline must be at a depth of at least 1-1.5 m. If a well is used as a source, a hole must be punched at its base to insert the pipe. Later, when all pipe laying work is completed, the inlet is sealed.

Then the scheme is approximately the same, both for a well and for a well. To lay the pipeline, a trench is prepared from the hydraulic structure to the walls of the house. Depth – 30-50 cm below the freezing level. It is advisable to immediately provide a slope of 0.15 m per 1 m of length.

When the trench is dug, its bottom is covered with a 7-10 cm layer of sand, after which it is watered and compacted. Pipes are laid on the sand bed, connected, and hydraulic tests are carried out at a pressure 1.5 times higher than the planned working pressure.

If everything is in order, the pipeline is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand and compacted without excessive pressure so as not to tear the pipes. After this, the trench is filled with soil. The pumping cable is laid together with the pipes and insulated. If necessary, it can be extended if the standard length is not enough to connect to the power source. The standard pump electrical cable is 40 m.

When preparing a trench for a pipeline, a sand cushion must be installed. This is necessary so that a sharp cobblestone from the ground does not pierce and depressurize the pipe

How else can you supply water to your house? If the house is located in harsh climatic conditions or the owner decided to lay the pipeline so as not to depend on the depth of soil freezing, then there are options for arranging an external water supply:

The pipeline is laid at a depth of 60 cm and covered with a 20-30 cm layer of insulating mixture - expanded clay, foam chips or coal slag. The main requirements for the insulator are minimal hygroscopicity, strength, and no compaction after compaction.
It is possible to organize external water supply at a shallow depth - from 30 cm, if the pipes are insulated with special insulation and a corrugated casing.
Sometimes pipes are laid with a heating cable. This is an excellent solution for areas where bitter frosts are severe in winter.

The material on organizing permanent and summer water supply options at your dacha will also be useful:

Entering the pipeline into the house

Water is carried from the well into the house through the foundation. The pipeline most often freezes at the point of entry, even if it is laid according to all the rules. Concrete allows moisture to pass through well, and this contributes to problems with pipes. To avoid them, you need a piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the water supply.

It will serve as a kind of protective case for the insertion site. To do this, you can choose a pipe from any available material - asbestos, metal or plastic. The main thing is that the diameter is significantly larger, because you need to lay a water pipe with heat-insulating materials. For a 32 cm water supply, take a 50 cm case pipe.

The pipeline is insulated, placed in a protective structure, and then padded to achieve maximum waterproofing. A rope is hammered in the middle, and from it to the edge of the foundation - clay, diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. This is an excellent natural waterproofing agent. If you do not want to prepare the mixture yourself, you can use polyurethane foam or any suitable sealant.

The pipeline entry should be located in the foundation itself, and not under it, because... After pouring it, the soil under the structure must not be touched. In the same way, the sewer pipeline is introduced through the foundation. There must be at least 1.5 m between the inputs of water supply and wastewater disposal systems.

For thermal insulation, materials with a thickness of about 9 mm are used. This protects the pipeline from deformation during shrinkage

Internal distribution of water supply pipes

After you have installed water in a private house, you need to choose the layout and type of internal wiring. It can be open or closed. The first method assumes that all pipes will be visible. This is convenient from the point of view of repair and maintenance, but from an aesthetic point of view it is not the best option.

Closed pipe installation is a method of placing pipes in the floor and walls. Communications are completely masked, they are not visible under the final finish, but this is a labor-intensive and costly process. If you have to repair pipes, then the entire room where you need access to them will also require updating the finish.

The most commonly used method is the open method of laying internal water supply pipes. This is much cheaper and more convenient than gating walls to mask communications. Pipes made of polymer materials look good and are better suited for an open system than metal ones

There are the following wiring diagrams:

collector;
tee;
mixed.

With the collector type of wiring, a collector (comb) is installed. Separate pipes go from it to each plumbing fixture. This wiring option is suitable for both types of pipe laying - open and closed.

Thanks to the presence of a manifold, the pressure in the system is stable, but this is an expensive undertaking, because... requires a large amount of materials. A significant advantage of this scheme is that when one plumbing fixture is repaired, the water supply to the rest is possible as before.

Installation of manifold wiring is significantly more expensive than tee wiring, but these costs are recouped. Leaks most often occur at joints. With a collector circuit, the joints are minimum

The tee circuit is also called sequential. Plumbing fixtures are connected in series one after another. The advantage of the method is its cheapness and simplicity, but the disadvantage is the loss of pressure. If several devices operate simultaneously, the pressure decreases noticeably.

When repairing at one point, the entire water supply system has to be turned off. The mixed scheme provides for collector connection of mixers and serial connection of plumbing fixtures.

Serial connection of plumbing fixtures is the cheapest and most convenient option. However, such a scheme may well lead to the fact that when you open a cold tap in the kitchen, the water temperature in the bathroom will rise sharply

To drain water from the system if necessary, install a separate tap. When the internal plumbing is completely assembled, its operation is checked. If there are no leaks, the pressure at all water intake points is normal, the system can be put into operation.

Video example of arranging a water supply system inside a house:

When designing an autonomous water supply system, the need to install filters and water treatment systems should be taken into account. They can differ significantly in function, type of design and connection to the water supply. To choose the right filters, you need to do a water analysis to determine whether there are unwanted impurities. If the chemical and microbiological analyzes of the water are in order, then only rough purification of the water from sand, silt and dirt will be sufficient. If not, it is better to select equipment after consultation with specialists.

Water is needed in all aspects of human life, including domestic life. Before buying a plot to build your dream home, it is worth considering the water supply system in advance. This issue is more relevant than ever, as the number of people moving from city apartments to the private sector is growing every year.

Bringing water to a private home is not a cheap pleasure; it is better to calculate all the costs in advance and stock up on finances. The costs are due to the fact that the process itself is not easy. How much does it cost to install plumbing in a private home? What affects the final cost?

Costs of carrying water to a private house

A private house must meet certain technical and household requirements. The owners usually strive to bring the living conditions in it closer to those in a comfortable apartment.

And one of the key factors is the water supply in the house. The 21st century is sweeping the world, which means that “conveniences on the street” and trips to the well for water are a thing of the past.

The cost depends on which source you choose:

Backbone system.
Well.
Autonomous source.

Main water supply is not as good an option as it might seem:

Uneven availability.
Insufficient quality of services, for example, low water pressure in the house.
The connection will turn into paperwork.
Vodokanal's design service is paid separately (price can vary from 20 thousand rubles, the amount depends on the region of residence).

It will cost much less to install a well in a private house, including a battery tank and a pumping station. How much it will cost depends on the depth of the layer and finishing materials. Expenses can amount to from 5 thousand rubles, installation and supplies included.

The most expensive option for a private home is standalone source. As a rule, this is an artesian well. It is worth the money spent, as it gives access to an unlimited supply of quality water.

In addition, you can conduct water in this way without using a pump. Constant pressure in the well forces the liquid to gush to the surface without the use of additional devices.

The well will be expensive due to the need to register it and drill to an impressive depth. All the work together will cost from 100 thousand rubles and above.

The direct costs of wiring to rooms inside a private house depend on the technical design drawn up by specialists. It is also better to entrust all work to professionals.

Well in a private house

The simplest and least expensive way to provide a home with water is a well. Its installation is not a difficult job, therefore it won't cost much.

The water supply in the well is replenished, but only as long as it is fed by underground sources. In addition, it needs to be equipped filtration system and a storage tank to maintain good pressure. The quality of the water will depend on the type of groundwater.

Wells are exposed to natural precipitation and various runoff. Despite all its disadvantages, the well will not require huge costs and will last a long time. Still, the optimal type of water supply in a private home is an autonomous system.

Well for water

It's expensive to run a well, but it's worth it. Wells are divided into two types: artesian and sand.

The second is cheaper An analogue of the first, it is used to extract water at a depth of up to 35 meters from sandy aquifers.

This is a good option for a summer residence. Before carrying out such water supply, you should familiarize yourself with its nuances:

if the sand layer is deeper than 35 meters, then you will have to drill an artesian well;
if the soil is rocky, then drilling is impossible;
even if water is extracted from a sand well in the house next door, there is no reason to believe that drilling on your site will give the desired result;
the filter will have to be cleaned frequently due to the accumulation of sludge, the filter does not change, if it is completely dirty, a new well is drilled;
the filter does not provide complete cleaning, sand gets into the water, which has a bad effect on the operation of the pump;
service life depends on the frequency of use in a private home;
Water pollution in the upper layers varies and depends on weather conditions.

But it has one significant drawback: it can be use maximum 7 years. But the artesian well will be used for many more generations. In both cases, water quality does not depend on any external factors.

Now you know how much it costs to install water in a private home. Of course, everything is decided by the owner of the house, taking into account the available opportunities, including financial ones.

An artesian well is the best option, so it should be considered as a prospect.

Most residents of the private sector deliberately refuse to connect to the main system for objective reasons.

Experts advise take into account all the nuances and your plans for further living in the designed private house when choosing a water supply system. It is better to work out this issue in advance, even at the stage of purchasing a land plot.