How to use a manual circular saw. The subtleties of choice and features of the operation of a manual circular electric saw. Rules for working with circular saws

Learn how a circular saw is used, safety precautions and efficiency. These simple tips and tricks will help you bring to life many ideas, from wall shelves and to do all the work faster, better and more efficiently.

Circular saw, not everything is so difficult and scary.

Setting a blade too deep causes a number of unnecessary problems. Firstly, it is very dangerous and possible to injure, in comparison with the correct installation of the blade, because the excess part of the blade is used during cutting. In addition, a circular saw works hard using its full resource if the blade is plunged too deep. The blade of a saw blade works much more efficiently and cuts easier when it is set correctly.

At the beginning of the cut, the thickness of the workpiece and the depth of immersion of the blade are determined. Using the guard lever, open the saw blade, then the saw blade is placed base on the workpiece with the guard open. Then loosen the levers or knobs for adjusting the depth of immersion and changing the degree of inclination of the blade, set the saw blade to approximately 10 - 15 mm. below the workpiece thickness. Tighten the levers or knobs and you are ready to start cutting.

Always make sure the end of the board is free to fall or come loose after cutting. When making rough cuts in lumber, keep in mind that a piece of board falling down will chip at the end of the cut. To avoid such a nuisance, for example, when you make a cut of a board for a product, constant support of the board is necessary. But you need to keep it without clamping the canvas, you can do otherwise, we limit the cut of the board, and then remove the undercut with a hacksaw.

The plywood cutting technique is such that when sawing plywood, without its support along the entire length, the saw blade can be clamped or plywood veneer chips are formed along the cut line, at the end of the cut, a piece of plywood will definitely fall down and chip. If you are using goats, then simply lay a sheet of plywood on top of a pair of crosswise battens on the goats. This will provide the plywood with the necessary support, and the circular saw will make an excellent cut, without chipping.

Don't cut boards that are on the fence, kickback is the problem.

It's kind of like cutting off the tree branch you're sitting on, thereby creating guaranteed trouble. The reason is that as the cut nears completion, the board slopes down, which will subsequently pinch the blade in the cut and jam the saw. This is dangerous and, as a rule, can lead to unpredictable consequences.

Fastening the board on the goats, a simple trick.

In most cases, a circular saw table is the best way to make battens of the same size. But if you don't have a circular table, then a circular saw will make precise cuts and it works great. The trick is to keep the board in one place while you cut it. Advice: cutting a not very wide board will interfere. Thus, a good alternative to clamping is to place nails, screws, the so-called “claws” on the rail in the upper part of the “goats”, and lay the board directly on them. But you can drive flush nails or screws directly from above into the board, then they can be easily removed at the end of the work. To reduce damage on the board, it is better to use "claws".

Any circular saw has a saw blade guard that needs to be lifted up before starting the miter cut. The protective cover is lifted with a lever. After you have made a 4-5 cm cut, slowly release the guard so that it rests on the board. If you try to start a cut at an angle with a guard, the guard will prevent you from starting a straight cut.

How Right work with a circular saw

Start with a good disc

For clean cross cuts in bulky woods, decorative plywood and other sheet and board materials, swap out the standard 24-tooth blade found on most models for a 50-60-tooth blade. And for most cuts where quality requirements are not very high, use a 40-tooth blade. How to Cut Trees with a Chainsaw Properly. How to cut with a manual circular saw. Wood carving with a chainsaw: a video instruction on how to do it yourself, features of sawing products, figures, nozzles for sanding wood, how to cut trees correctly, price, photo. And only for longitudinal sawing of bulky wood species, again install a standard blade with 24 teeth.

Get rid of chips in one of three ways

The teeth of the saw blade rotate in a forward and upward direction. The underside of the workpiece, where the teeth enter the material, almost always remains clean, without chips. On the contrary, the upper side usually happens to be so disfigured by chips that it cannot be used in visible places of the product (compare three photos with varying degrees of chipping). Therefore, if possible, for cutting, always lay the sheet or gloss face down. And if you have to to nag on the right side, use one of these techniques to keep the edges of the cut clean.

Read also

1. How to use a circular saw correctly. To properly cut down a tree with a chainsaw, it is used as sawing pretty. How to use a circular saw correctly. And if you have to cut on the front side. Preparatory pruning

Make a cut that two steps instead of one. The 1st shallow cut will cleanly cut the wood fibers near the surface, and they will not be pulled up in the final cut.

How to work with a circular saw

Disk Drive Safety saw. Rules and tricks when working with circular saws. At the development

Ruler for a hand circular saw or how to cut straight.

Set a goal to nag smooth. 30. How to cut perfectly evenly with a hand-held circular saw or how to saw. As a result, here is such a simple adaptation. ;))))

2.Use anti-splinter pad

Read also

To compress surface wood grains, especially on materials veneered with wet veneer, and prevent chipping where the teeth of the disc come out of the material, attach to the soleplate circular saw a plate of solid hardboard. How to cut plywood correctly. By smoothly plunging into a non-rotating disk and sawing through it, you will get an anti-splinter pad, the width of the shed in which will exactly match the thickness saw blade. It will help minimize chipping.

Attention! Be extremely careful when working with such an overlay, as it interferes with the protective casing from closing the disc from below.

3. How to correctly which you are going to saw. How to use a circular saw correctly. About the intricacies of working with a circular saw. Make a guide bar

Not only does this guide bar help you deal with chips, but it also simplifies your cutting job so you don't have to do any calculations. Make it as shown in the picture. Adjust width to fit your saw. Features of the process, how to use a circular saw on your own. Useful tips and tricks, necessary rules. We made a guide rail with a mine about one and a half meters for cutting plywood sheets. The distance between the edge of the base and the stop should be 10-12 mm greater than the distance from the saw blade to the edge

Many craftsmen prefer a circular saw, since it is it that, better than other power tools, can cut a board or beam along the material. Moreover, for example, they allow you to combine a high level of performance and maneuverability.

Efficiency depends on the choice of saw

However, if you want to get information on how to choose a hand saw, then first of all, experts advise you to pay attention to the main criterion for work - the maximum cutting depth. But the choice of a circular is not limited to this: you also need to decide what level of performance you will need for work - household or professional, and also select the required tool size.

The most widely used saws are of medium size. This choice is explained by the fact that this tool does not require significant effort and is more maneuverable during operation. However, if you're building a house and you're gearing up for a lot of activity, then it's worth choosing a larger saw blade for the performance you'll love.

At the same time, to perform such work, a saw that can be installed permanently is more suitable for you - work with thin boards and clapboard will go more successfully. If you decide to buy a small size saw, then you will have a tool in your hands that is ideal for working with thin materials.

Applying new device elements

Expensive models are equipped with an electronic soft start system, which allows the disc to gain momentum at a steady speed. At the same time, the protective cover moves away from the disc smoothly, “allowing” the teeth to easily, without twitching, set to work. To achieve greater convenience in starting work, the designs of some circulars are equipped with an approach roller and a pendulum casing.

Please also note that some electronic control systems allow you to change the number of revolutions of the saw blade during the sawing process. This function is very convenient because it allows this machine to work not only with wood, but also with softer materials, such as plastic.

Modern types of saws also consist of models that can control and control the speed of rotation under load in the course of work. The latter function is especially relevant, as it protects the device from overheating. It is also very convenient that many modern circular saws have an indicator of overloads and wear of the motor brushes. Typically, these saws are also equipped with a quick brake system and spindle lock for easy blade replacement.

A very useful feature at present is that both professional and household saw models have special taps in their design for connecting a vacuum cleaner. And although this reduces the maneuverability of the saw, but there are fewer harmful factors when working with this tool.

Circular saw teeth

No saw can do without teeth: therefore, when creating effective conditions for cutting, you also need to learn how to understand them. For example, note that when working with plywood and softwoods, it is better to use discs with regular teeth. But when performing a task with chipboard or hardwood, you need to use discs with carbide teeth: they have special victorious soldering, as well as a different number and shape of teeth.

A small number of teeth (up to 24) on the disc will be most ideal for cutting work: for example, when it is necessary to carry out longitudinal sawing of boards. Fine cutting will be better done with discs with a number of teeth from 36 to 48 pieces. But, be especially careful when working with boards that are hardwood or have nails inside: here you need disks with teeth, which should be about 54 pieces, and which have trapezoidal soldering.

Working with a circular saw

And, although all the previous information also concerned direct work, but in this section we would like to talk about what quality work with such a tool depends on. Experts answer this question as follows: basically, the quality of work will depend on the frequency of rotation of the disk and its type. In addition, the cutting efficiency will be directly affected by the transverse and longitudinal balance of the device, that is, there should be no skew in the center of gravity of the tool. This imbalance will cause tension, discomfort and unnecessary fatigue.

It is also worth paying attention to the quality of sharpening the disc. This is especially important when working with low-power models. Today, finding the answer to the question of where to sharpen a disc is not a particular problem. The main thing in this matter is to notice in time that the saw needs to be sharpened.

The following points can serve as signs that the disc needs sharpening: it requires the application of great physical strength during operation, the cut edges burn, or the engine noticeably overheats. Well, if smoke has already gone out of the saw and there is a smell of melting insulation, then you obviously missed the time for sharpening the disk, and now you will reap the consequences of your carelessness in this matter.

In general, we wish you to comprehend all the subtleties of working with a circular saw and make only smooth and high-quality cuts with it.

Safety. Regardless of your experience with a circular saw, never neglect safety rules to save time or money.

• Use only defect-free and sharp saw blades. They are safer and give better results.
• Use the devices recommended by the manufacturers - guards, stops, guides, etc.
• Disconnect the machine from the mains before changing the saw.
• Do not install, configure, etc. until the saw comes to a complete stop.
• Check workpieces for knots, nails, screws and other foreign bodies.
• Before switching on, make sure that the auxiliary tool (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.) is removed from the desktop.
• Feed the workpiece against the direction of movement of the saw, i.e. its cutting edges.
• Hold the workpiece securely as it moves across the work table.
• Use special pushers to feed the workpiece, do not risk getting your hand into the saw area.
• Never reach over the saw, for example to remove cuttings.
• Do not brake the saw with a wooden object, let it stop on its own if the machine does not have a special brake.
• Periodically check the tightness of all fasteners - nuts, bolts, screws, etc.

Longitudinal sawing

The workpiece is always moved along the rip fence and never cut in free hand mode to avoid the risk of misguiding the workpiece and jamming the saw blade in it. The riving knife and blade guard must always be engaged in this mode of operation.

The rip fence that runs along the entire work table from edge to edge is ideal for sawing artificial wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such a stop can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut kerf in surface hardened wood would pinch the blade were it not for the riving knife, similar internal stresses can push the kerf apart until it presses the workpiece against the saw blade and jams it or possibly ejects the part. If the fence has front and back adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end extends approximately 25 mm beyond the front edge of the saw protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Or fasten a wooden block on the stop to provide such a gap. With any method of installing the stop, it must be parallel to the disk.

Set the sawing width on the stop scale, make a trial cut on unnecessary material and check the correct setting. If you don't trust the scale, use a ruler measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before turning on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.

Sawing a wide board. When sawing a wide board, with one hand move the workpiece from the side of its back (but not in line with the saw blade), and with the other, press the board against the table and the fence at the same time. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that it is you who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing a narrow board. Finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher - a rail with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use the second pusher to press the parts against the stop. Keep pushers close to the machine so they are always at hand when needed.

Cross cutting

When crosscutting on a circular saw, use the bevel stop or moving table section to feed the wood onto the saw blade. A sharp saw cuts the butt so cleanly that additional finishing may not be necessary. Do not remove the riving knife and blade guard, although the knife is not essential for crosscutting.

Cross cutting with the bevel stop. On the average circular saw, the adjustable bevel fence is relatively short, but often has drilled holes that can be used to install an additional, longer hardwood fence on the stock fence. Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence with both hands and feed at a relatively slow speed. If the part is too short to hold it with two hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the stop.

Cross cutting on the moving section. The friction between a large workpiece and the work table can make crosscutting with the bevel fence very hard work. Easy, smooth crosscut capability helps improve accuracy and accuracy of cuts regardless of workpiece size or weight. On the movable section of the working table of the circular machine, there is a longer than average stop, which can be rotated at an angle of 90 ° to 45 ° with respect to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making several identical parts.

Making bevels. To bevel on a circular saw, set the appropriate stop to the desired angle, then feed the workpiece in the direction of the blade in the normal manner. Make sure that the part is firmly pressed against the stop so that the saw does not move it back.

For bevel cuts, tilt the saw blade.

Getting the same parts

Many carpentry structures require several of the same parts. Instead of marking each workpiece, set one or two stops to correctly position the workpieces relative to the disk and perform repetitive operations in parallel.

Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that equal cuts are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut piece may be caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is either to slightly not bring the longitudinal stop to the disk, or to fix the separating block on the stop, which would act as an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Cutting identical workpieces. On the extension rail of the stop, fix a wooden block, which will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Making folds, grooves and spikes

On some models of circular saws, both the blade guard and the riving knife must be removed to cut a groove or rebate. As a result, this work becomes more dangerous than standard ripping or crosscutting, so it is necessary to increase attention and concentration during such operations. Some circular saws may be equipped with clamp guards that surround the workpiece in the work area near the saw. Another protection option could be a homemade wooden pad, fixed on a longitudinal stop and including a simple disc guard.

A pair of beveled - rocking - washers causes the edge of the blade to swing from side to side as it rotates and make a wider groove than a regular cut. Another way is to install the groove head. It is necessary to change the standard table insert to another one with a wider slot for the saw blade.

Two straight longitudinal cuts result in a rebate on the workpiece. Make the first cut on the narrower edge of the part, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide adequate support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove the waste wood. Make the second cut so that the piece of wood is not on the side of the fence, as a piece of wood caught between the fence and the blade can be thrown out with force by the rotation of the blade at the moment of cutting the last fibers.

An oscillating saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. In the absence of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, resetting the longitudinal stop to the width of the blade, make alternate cuts until you have selected the entire groove between the two cuts.

To get the center ridge, make two identical folds on the edge of one of the parts of the joint. Make the first cut in the narrow edge, then turn the other end over to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove cuttings from both sides of the comb.

Execution of a spike. Some machine tool manufacturers produce tenon clamps. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during processing. Fasten with screws two wooden blocks of the same thickness on a sheet of plywood measuring 400x200 mm. Both boards should be aligned with the long side of the plywood and leave room for the workpiece to be placed between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Use screws only from one - farthest from the saw - end of the bar. To prevent the template from swinging, glue an additional stop.

Fix the workpiece on the template and make one pass to cut one face of the tenon. Turn the workpiece over to cut the second face.

After that, partially cut off the excess wood from each side of the spike to check its fit in the socket. If necessary, make adjustments to the stop setting before working on subsequent workpieces.

To make shoulders, fix the spacer block on the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned in relation to the canvas.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders, and then remove the waste in volumes of one blade thickness per pass.

You can modify the template to make a slot in the bevel.

Spike connection straight open. This corner connection is used in the construction of box-type products. Its manufacture by hand is a very laborious process, but on a circular machine, with the help of a simple device, several such joints can be cut in a matter of minutes. Use a wide kerf blade or install wobblers to select the lugs (the grooves between the tenons). Calculate the distance so that you get an integer number of evenly spaced spikes on both parts of the connection.

To make a template, attach a long piece of wood to the bevel fence and, setting the height of the blade just above the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Plane the hardwood plank so that it fits snugly into the cut. Cut off 50-75 mm from the plank and glue this section of the plank into the cut so that a short protruding tenon is obtained.

Place the template back on the bevel stop and place the rest of the plank between the blade and the template tenon, then secure the template to the stop and remove the plank.

Put the first part of the connection on the end and rest it against the protruding spike of the template. Fix the workpiece.

Make a pass along the saw, then put the resulting cut on the template spike and make the next eye with a new cut.

Continue in this order until you complete the entire row of spikes.

The spikes on the second part of the connection must be shifted to match the lugs of the first part. Place the second part on the end, as in the previous operation, but place the rest of the bar between it and the template spike.

Then, removing the bar, make the first cut, then put it on the spike of the template and make the next eye, repeating the procedure as many times as necessary.

Place it on the side of the glue and, after it dries, cut off the protruding parts of the spikes flush.

When using the content of this site, you need to put active links to this site, visible to users and search robots.

Electric saws, like any tool, require certain rules of operation. Powered saws equipped with sharp cutting discs or blades are unsafe tools. Improper handling can result in serious injury to the operator. Therefore, you should use the electric saw with the utmost care, observing certain safety rules.

Since this power tool is equipment that is characterized by increased injury, certain safety precautions must be observed when working with a saw.

General safety requirements

To work with circular electric saws must be allowed persons over 18 years of age who have been instructed and have practical training in working with these tools. Employees are strictly prohibited from smoking in the workplace. Also, the staff should have an idea about the methods of fire fighting and first aid. First aid kit and fire extinguisher should be in easily accessible places. In case of poor health, the machine operator must refuse to perform work.

Safety requirements before starting work

At work foreign objects must not be present. It is necessary to remove all objects from the working table of the unit (wrenches and adjusting keys), and also to free all approaches to it. The floor near the work area must be non-slip, clean and dry to prevent the operator from accidentally falling onto the running machine. The machine must be well grounded.

Operator clothing should be well buttoned and tucked in. You can not approach the machine with the developing ends of the clothes. Long hair should be picked up and hidden under a headdress. The eyes of the machine operator must be protected by goggles, and the respiratory tract by a respirator or a regular medical mask (available at a pharmacy). It is also recommended to protect your hearing organs with special headphones.

Before starting the saw, you should check:

• serviceability of the saw blade (are there any broken cutters, dirt, sharpening quality);
• the reliability of its fastening;
• correct installation of the riving knife and guide bar;
• the presence of a protective cover.

If a hand-held circular saw with a short electric cable is used, an extension cord will be needed to allow the operator to move freely within the work area. A hand-held electric saw must be equipped with a soft start system to prevent the tool from jerking when starting.

If it is not provided for by the design of the unit, then you can also connect a soft start through an outdoor module made by yourself or bought in China.

Safety rules during work

Before starting to cut with a circular saw, let the machine idle. If abnormalities are found in the operation of the unit, it should be turned off and the faults repaired. During the sawing process, the following rules should be observed.

1. When starting work, the machine operator must be to the left of the machine, near the left (front) corner of the desktop, so that if the part is accidentally ejected, it does not injure the operator.
2. Workpieces before sawing should be carefully inspected to exclude the presence of nails, ice, dried dirt or concrete that may fall on the cut line.
3. Never pass any objects over the rotating saw of the machine.
4. If the board has a crack or knots, then at the moment the saw approaches these places, the feed of the workpiece should be slowed down.
5. Do not bring the workpiece close to the saw with your hands. For this there are special pushers.
6. Do not use the circular saw with the riving knife and guard removed.
7. To change the blade on a circular saw, you must first completely de-energize the unit. Turning it off with a button will not be enough.

If the partner helps the machinist to take the board, then he must also adhere to the rules:

• the board should be taken without distortion;
• the part can be removed from the table only after it has completely passed through the riving knife;
• having accepted the part, it should be put aside (piling up) and clean the workplace near the saw blade from scraps using a long stick;
• Do not pull the workpiece towards you while sawing.
• feeding the board to the saw should be only from the side of the machine operator, who controls the movement of the workpiece.

Rules for working with circular saws

Working with manual and stationary circular saws requires a certain sequence of actions, which we will discuss below.

Manual models

If you have to work with a hand-held circular saw, then first you need to select a saw blade that matches the type of work ahead, adjust the sawing depth and tilt of the equipment. The depth of cut of a circular saw is set according to the following principle: the tooth of the saw blade must protrude from the workpiece either to half or completely.

To work you should:

• fix the workpiece on the workbench with clamps (you can not hold the workpiece with your hands);
• position the tool on the workpiece so that the saw blade does not touch it;
• start the engine of the unit and wait until the equipment picks up full speed;
• holding the machine firmly in your hands, cut, pressing the sole of the hand saw to the workpiece;
• after finishing sawing, make sure that the casing has returned to its original position, after which you need to turn off the machine.

Important! Never leave an unplugged unit with the start button locked. Plugging in the saw will start the engine and may cause injury to people nearby.

Stationary Models

To start working on a circular stationary machine, follow these steps.

What can be done with electric circular saws

Circular electric saws allow you to process wood and products based on it in different ways, which depend on the type of tool chosen.

Types of work with a manual circular saw

With a hand-held circular saw, you can perform the following types of work:

• to perform trimming of a plurality of workpieces laid in one plane;

• trim wide boards using parallel stop that cannot be cut with a pendulum saw;

• cut boards when laying floors;

• trim the workpiece at an angle, without a guide and with its use;

• perform longitudinal sawing of the workpiece at an angle;

• align the unedged board along a pre-drawn line;

• choose a quarter in a board or beam;

• to cut sheet materials using guide bar;

• changing the equipment, you can cut metal profiled sheets with a circular saw;

• cut plexiglass and various types of plastic;

• install the hand saw on the table and use it as a stationary circular saw.

Working on a circular machine

Working with a circular saw (stationary) is slightly different from working with a manual unit. With a circular saw, you can do the following:

• cut and end wide workpieces, both with a straight cut and at an angle;

• to produce longitudinal and transverse sawing of wooden boards;

• cut wood-based sheet materials;

• dissolve the board at an angle;

• sawing unedged board.

Types of work with a miter saw

The miter saw can do the following:

• to trim wood blanks at any angle with respect to the edge;

• to cut the workpiece at an angle to its face;

• miter saw with broach allows you to cut wider workpieces;

How to cut a board evenly along and across

Due to the difference in the design of hand saws and stationary saws, the methods for sawing wood differ significantly.

Working on a circular machine

If you need to cut a board along the fibers, for example, unedged, then this is done as follows:

• draw a straight line on the workpiece with a ruler;

• then, along this line, with maximum accuracy, make the first cut to cut off the bark;

• next, set parallel stop(guide) and dissolve the workpiece into smaller boards;

If the length of the circular table does not allow long boards to be unraveled, then a simple device can be made for this purpose, shown in the following figure.

Advice! For cross-cutting boards on the machine, you will need to install a movable carriage on its table. If it was not included with the machine, then this device can be made by hand. How to do this is detailed in the following video.

With this carriage, you can trim boards and bars both at a straight line and at any angle.

Cutting boards with a hand saw

Many owners of hand-held circular saws are faced with the problem of trimming the board along the line. At the very beginning of sawing, the line is visible, but then it is blocked by the casing of the unit. Since the markings are not visible, the cut is uneven.

To cut the board straight and get the perfect cut, you need to position the tool so that the saw blade is opposite the markup. On the other side of the assembly to the board attach square and slide it towards the base of the device. Secure the square with a clamp. You will receive a guide set at a right angle. Carry out the trimming of the board. The result is a perfect 90° cut.

For longitudinal cutting boards are used guide bar. It may have longitudinal grooves in which a hand-held electric saw is installed. Also, a tire in the form of a simple long guide can be made independently. In the second case, one of the sides of the sole of the unit during sawing will go along the tire (ruler) fixed on the workpiece. As a result, you will get an even longitudinal cut.

The following illustrations show homemade guides, the width of which depends on the size of the sole of the hand saw.

Possibilities of a reciprocating saw

This unit is a universal tool and besides, it is easy to use. Therefore, it is allowed to work with a reciprocating electric saw, without special skills. With the help of a reciprocating electric saw, you can perform the following types of work:

• dismantle old windows and door frames;

• cut unnecessary branches on trees in the garden;

• cut wooden blanks to length;

• cut metal profiles and pipes - thanks to flexible tooling, pipes can be cut flush to the wall;

• cut metal bars and fittings;

• cut decorative elements in wooden blanks.

A reciprocating electric saw allows you to make a parallel cut, but its quality, when compared with circular saws, is not worth talking about. It is quite difficult to make a long and straight cut with a reciprocating electric saw.

Before starting to work with a reciprocating saw, check the security of the attachment and the stop shoe. When using this tool, adhere to the following rules.

Advice! To work with a reciprocating saw on wood more efficiently, you can turn on the pendulum stroke, which will significantly increase the sawing speed.

Cutting metal with a band saw

Band saws for wood are not used for cutting metal due to their flimsy design. In addition, their cutting speed is too high for these purposes. Therefore, there are special band saws for metal both stationary and manual.

The band saw for metal is a high-power equipment capable of sawing both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Also, these units can cut plastic blanks.

When cutting metal on a stationary machine, the workpiece is rigidly fixed on the working table of the unit to increase the cutting accuracy. The machine is also equipped water cooling system, since the blade tends to heat up during the sawing process. Thanks to this system, the coolant is supplied directly to the cutting site. The hand band saw also has high power (about 710 watts). It can be used both in manual mode and stationary. The unit is completed quick clamping mechanism to securely hold the workpiece.

The following photo shows the pipes fixed in the clamping mechanism. In this case, the unit is used as a pendulum saw, but already a band saw.

The following photos show how metal is cut with a band saw in manual mode.