We build a bathhouse from foam blocks with our own hands. Affordable bathhouse made of foam blocks with your own hands. Building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands.

Pumps

Foam blocks are a universal material. They can be used to build any structures that maintain a high level of humidity, so they are optimal for baths. If you correctly use the positive properties of foam blocks, it becomes possible to create a high-quality and durable structure.

Increased strength. The compressive strength is estimated to be approximately 3.5-5.0 MPa. Many brands of foam block can be used in the construction of two-story and three-story baths.
Minimum density. This value ranges from about 400 to 1600 kg/m. cube, which is determined by the brand of the substance. This is the lowest indicator even for lightweight building materials. This indicator has minimal impact on wear resistance and strength. The low density of foam blocks ensures their successful storage and transportation. The speed of work during the construction of a bathhouse also increases, since in many cases special equipment is not required. Even one person is enough to lift and install each block to an acceptable height.
Low thermal conductivity coefficient. If you evaluate the thermal insulation properties of the material, you will notice that it is similar to wood. When compared with clay brick, it exhibits 3 times better performance.
Soundproofing. There are practically no extraneous sounds coming through the walls made of foam blocks. Such noise protection is determined by the presence of a large number of pores in the structure.
Moisture resistance. This indicator for foam blocks is excellent for baths. When blocks are produced in accordance with GOST, they have so many sealed pores that they can theoretically last on water for 7 days.
Frost resistance. Due to the presence of pores of various sizes, water has the ability to actively move before freezing. All the positive properties of foam blocks remain unchanged even at extremely low temperatures.
Fire resistance. Foam concrete is not flammable and does not support combustion. Open fire cannot harm these units for up to 8 hours.
Homogeneous structure. Despite the presence of pores, this material can boast of uniformity, since all holes are approximately the same size and have a geometric arrangement. This helps to use almost any material processing method, including sawing or chipping. When using fragments of blocks, the finished structure will not be damaged.

Video - Foam blocks and foam concrete

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Almost any soil is suitable for constructing a bathhouse made of foam blocks. You should first level the space where you plan to install the foundation.

The slope level of the area is measured. To clarify it, it is enough to install metal or wooden rods along the edges of an already dug trench in increments of approximately 1 m, stretch a rope between them and determine its horizontalness. If necessary, the level is changed artificially by digging a deeper trench in places opposite to areas with a strong slope. A slight difference at opposite ends is allowed, as it ensures rapid drainage of water, but the slope should not be allowed to be too great. If it is possible to choose a separate site for construction, it is necessary to give preference to areas with dense soil.

All debris is completely cleared from the ground. The top fertile layer of soil is also removed. The removal of all organic impurities must be ensured. If the ground is rocky, you will have to remove too large, protruding rock elements. To compensate for the level of removed soil, the soil is backfilled with purified soil, which can be purchased separately. The complete elimination of all unnecessary parts from the entire surface of the earth will avoid waste rotting near the foundation after the construction of the bathhouse, since this building is a constant source of moisture during active use.

Typically, the basis for foam concrete baths is a strip foundation. If the building structure has only one floor, in most cases it is possible to use a shallow version, since it can withstand a moderate load from a relatively light building material. Particular attention should be paid to the construction of the foundation, since the appropriateness of foam concrete blocks and the durability of the entire bathhouse building depend on its evenness and quality.

Foam blocks are quite durable, but in the finished structure they are completely dependent on the foundation. It must not be allowed to crack or warp, as the walls of the structure will change shape or break their integrity together with it. Depending on the depth of the future foundation, a trench is dug. It is necessary to separately calculate the depth for the sand cushion and possible insulating layers, and not just for pouring pure reinforced concrete mortar. On average, the depth of the pit ranges from 50 cm to 1 m. Usually, a width of 30 cm is sufficient. You can only navigate by this indicator if the size of the foam blocks has already been assigned. It is necessary to ensure that the width of the foundation is slightly greater than the foam blocks. This is necessary to be able to freely lay all the insulating layers on both sides of the structure.

When deciding on the depth of the foundation, you should focus not only on the general indicators of the future bathhouse, but also on the quality of the soil. In the case of clayey and other weak soils, deepening should be done as low as possible. If the soil exhibits excellent characteristics and weather conditions are moderate, a fairly compact foundation can be made. It is also worth checking the soil’s ability to heave and the presence of underground, melt water close to the ground. It's difficult to notice right away.

The level of soil heaving can be checked with a construction organization or geological surveys can be ordered. You should also inspect adjacent structures or ask neighbors about soil conditions. If neighboring buildings are slightly skewed or the foundations are cracking, it is necessary to build a deeply buried foundation, since in this case this problem will be avoided. The foundation must be below the maximum frost level, and in cold areas requires additional thermal insulation.

A pit is equipped in advance or a separate drain is prepared in the form of a private sewer outlet, and, if possible, the system is connected to the central sewer system. In any place located inside the structure, fenced by the future foundation, you can create a special channel with a slight slope. Later, after laying the floor, a small hole is provided for it, through which liquid will be removed from the room through pipes. It should be remembered that a pit or other place for drainage should be installed outside the contours of the building.

Creating a foundation

Step	Illustration	Description
Step 1.		The bottom of the trench is covered with an even layer of sand or gravel. The thickness of this backfill is approximately 20-30 cm. After its application, the material should be compacted. To do this, water is sprayed onto the surface. You can also immediately use pre-moistened sand.
Step 2.		Formwork is attached to the edges. Its thickness should not exceed 20 cm, optimally up to 10 cm. It is necessary to protect the concrete mixture from spreading. Wooden boards and metal sheet materials are suitable. You can also use permanent formwork, which comes with elements for installation. Removable formwork is fastened using support posts or simply connected to each other with self-tapping screws or long screws.
Step 3.		The reinforcing mesh is made using special rods. Chairs for reinforcement or stones are installed, which also serve as a stand. Vertical reinforcing bars are installed, onto which horizontal ones are attached. Elements should be mounted at all joints using welding or special steel wire.
Step 4.		The concrete mixture is being prepared. It consists of crushed stone, sand and cement, which are added in a ratio of 5:3:1. Immediately after bringing the concrete to a liquid state, it should be poured into the foundation structure, since if there is any delay, it may harden before the work is completed. When pouring, air bubbles may remain in the concrete, so to ensure the density and uniformity of the structure, it is necessary to release them by piercing the solution with a twig or using an internal vibrator.
Step 5.		The foundation must be completely hardened. For this you will have to wait 3 weeks. If the weather is windy or rainy, immediately after pouring it is necessary to cover the foundation with waterproofing, and in severe frosts, insulation is placed on top, which must again be covered with waterproofing. When the foundation is ready for use, it is necessary to cover it with one or two layers of roofing material, which performs the function of waterproofing.

The construction of walls made of foam blocks requires a minimum of labor and time costs. Theoretically, this work can be done even by one person. The blocks should be fastened similarly to brickwork. Foam blocks have voluminous dimensions, so work progresses at an accelerated pace.

To lay walls made of foam blocks, you will need the following tools.

Trowel.
Hammer-pick.
Mooring cord.
Rule.
Building level.
Joining.
Mortar shovel.
Plumb.

Step, No.	Illustration	Description
Step 1.		The foundation is being prepared. Using a building level, you need to check how level the foundation is. Any errors should be leveled out using a special solution (in this case you will have to wait a few days before building the walls).
Step 2.		The peculiarity of laying the first row of foam blocks is the need to isolate it from high humidity coming from the floor inside the structure and from the ground outside during the cold, rainy season. To do this, before laying the first row, it is necessary to lay high-quality waterproofing. You should choose a roll-type waterproofing material. Bicrost works great. The waterproofing layer is laid out in one or two rows over the entire surface without gaps or protrusions. The material should be selected so that it is slightly wider than a full row of foam blocks.
Step 3.		Apply sand-cement mortar to the waterproofing layer to secure the foam blocks. Only cement mixed with sand should be used. Other solutions are not suitable for the first row. The corners are laid out separately. It is necessary to ensure that the blocks stand absolutely level, since symmetry is necessary for laying reliable walls. From the corners they gradually move towards the center of the row. Before applying the solution to the entire outer blocks, you can spray them with water in a moderate amount. At the end of a row, it is sometimes necessary to place a trimmed block. To do this, both its edges are covered with mortar, and then it is carefully squeezed between the outer blocks.
Step 4.		Typically, developers choose M25 foam blocks for steam rooms. The blocks are placed on edge. You should try to reduce the thickness of the seam of each element by joining them tightly, but there is no need to save on mortar. It is necessary to erase all smudges in a timely manner and eliminate unevenness during the installation of blocks so that the structure does not have to be corrected. If a defective element is discovered during the work, it is not recommended to use it, but if necessary, you can cut out a solid part from it and use it for insertion into a limited socket.
Step 5.		The second row is often performed with a shift. It can be achieved by 50%. In some cases, it is laid in smaller blocks, but their width should be pre-agreed so that they fit symmetrically into the structure and all joints are consistent. It should be remembered that cement-sand mortar is always used only for treating the first row of bathhouse walls. From the second and subsequent ones, special glue can be used. Can be used not only specifically for foam blocks, but also for any other porous building materials, unless restrictions are indicated on the packaging. It is advisable to use one type of glue for the entire structure. It must be applied, adhering to the thickness limit of 0.5 cm. It is not necessary to wait for it to dry, however, when installing subsequent rows, care should be taken not to apply strong or sudden loads on the walls during the day.
Step 6.		If there is an unfilled gap due to insufficient clearance, it is necessary to cut one of the blocks and attach it to the structure. When the optimal width of this element is reached, it is necessary to immediately cut several more blocks and leave one as an example. Subsequently, when laying each subsequent row, it is necessary to lay out a similar section of the block above the previous one, that is, if it is necessary to use incomplete elements, it is necessary to join them so that each time they are layered on top of each other by 50%.
Step 7		After laying the first and each subsequent row, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the blocks with a building level. If even small unevenness is noticeable, it is necessary to level the blocks using a mallet, carefully tapping all protruding parts. A perfectly level level should be achieved to ensure the reliability of the walls of the bathhouse. Unevenness that cannot be leveled in this way must be leveled with a float.
Step 8		The second and subsequent rows of masonry must be laid on glue or mortar. If glue is used, only one row should be made and the dressing should be up to 12 cm, being sure to cover more than 50% of the height of the blocks. The glue layer should be about 3 mm. It is applied first to the vertical joint, and then to the seams in the horizontal direction. A notched trowel is used for this. If a mixture of cement and sand is used, it must be applied using a notched trowel resembling the shape of a bucket. The filling level of each seam should be monitored. In order for the masonry to be of high quality, all irregularities must be immediately corrected by grinding. If it is necessary to reduce heat loss, the blocks should be laid in 2 rows, with each vertical seam overlapping.
Step 9		To simplify the process of laying foam blocks, you can create an order. The material for this can be any object, but it is advisable to give preference to a wooden lath. The line should have a cross-section of at least 50 by 50 mm and be about 2 m long. A metal corner of approximately 60x60x5 mm is also suitable.
Step 10		To prevent the formation of cracks on the walls, it is necessary to perform reinforcement. To do this, grooves are made in the foam blocks and filled with a solution so that metal corrosion does not form. Then all metal parts are pressed in.

When the walls are laid, it is advisable to leave them for 3-5 days to dry completely. Their stability increases after several days, so only then is it necessary to create a roofing structure. For the time when the walls will stand without a roof, it is necessary to cover the structure of the bathhouse. For this, a special film is usually used. It is necessary to cover not only the walls, but also the internal component, so it is necessary to purchase a sufficient amount of waterproofing material in advance.

Video - Secrets of installing foam block partitions

Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks

There are 2 types of interfloor ceilings.

Monolithic.
Prefabricated.

They are excellent for foam concrete baths, as they have many positive qualities, including:

low cost;
fire resistance;
durability;
simple search and selection of necessary materials;
easy installation technology.

When constructing a monolithic floor, the following difficulties arise:

concrete rises to great heights. A concrete pump is useful for this;
The formwork is installed over the entire work area, tightly joining the blocks to each other.

The production of formwork must be approached carefully. The concrete mixture weighs approximately 500 kg per 1 square meter, despite the fact that the layer is about 15 cm. The formwork should easily withstand this weight. A safety margin is also required, since when concrete is poured, the force of the jet is applied to the structure, and all processes associated with the gradual hardening of concrete are also withstood.

The minimum parameters for formwork materials include the use of timber measuring from 10x10 cm, and plywood panels are at least 1.8 cm wide. When producing formwork, it is necessary to constantly check its horizontalness, using a building level.

Operating procedure:

installation of supports in the vertical direction at a distance of at least 1 m;
installing boards on supports at 5-7 cm;
Boards are laid on top of the initial structure, serving as the main part of the formwork.

Pouring the structure:

roofing material is laid out on the lower part of the formwork;
reinforcing bars form a network and are placed on reinforcing stools at a maximum height of 5 cm;
concrete is poured in a layer of 10 cm, but usually a level of 15 cm and above is required.

Pre-designed slabs are placed on the top of the bathhouse using a crane. They are fastened together using a special solution. To ensure the reliability of their installation, the production of a wooden or reinforced concrete frame is undertaken in advance.

Types of floors:

concrete plates;
foam concrete slabs.

Wooden and glued beams are used. First, the installation of rough boards is carried out, and then the finishing part of the structure. The resulting empty space must be filled with insulation, preferably in slab form. In addition to wooden beams, you can use metal ones.

Before attaching the Mauerlat, it is necessary to prepare a reinforcing belt. This is a reinforced concrete belt that serves to prevent the lowering of aerated concrete blocks relative to each other. With its help, you can evenly distribute all types of loads carried out by the roof on the walls.

The reinforcing tape is attached to the inner surface of the wall in the following sequence:

formwork is constructed, located around the perimeter of the house, taking into account all the protrusions. The pediments must be captured;
from thin reinforcement (1 cm thick is enough) a frame is assembled that stands out at least 4 cm;
to securely attach the Mauerlat to the wall, you should install threaded studs with a diameter of 1.4 cm in 1 m increments;
the resulting blocks should be filled with concrete. For this purpose, material grade M-200 is purchased;
After about 7 days, you can remove the formwork structure and proceed directly to attaching the Mauerlat.

Wooden materials are impregnated with antiseptics and dried if necessary. Usually a decision is made to treat the wood with a waterproofing material. Mixtures based on bitumen and polymers should be used, since roofing felt is not appropriate for these purposes. Using reliable materials, you can make a high-quality structure, so before installing each beam you should check its integrity and absence of defects.

If wet wood is used and there is no time to dry it, it should be possible to adjust the position of the material using the anchor nut in advance. This action will have to be done once every 5 years, sometimes more often, since the tree will dry out very slowly.

Attaching the Mauerlat to foam concrete blocks

An anchor is used complete with a washer and nut. Anchors can be used both in the shape of the letter T and G. It is advisable to select thread markings from M12 and M14. If the area is seismically dangerous, it is necessary to adhere to international construction rules and place anchors with a break of no more than 1-1.2 m. Do not forget about waterproofing.

Experts select the most convenient and durable type of fastener, which is performed in this order.

Holes are prepared along the length of the dowels, then fasteners are inserted.
The anchor is screwed in until it stops.
The teeth of the harpoon must be inserted into the concrete, carefully pushing it into its thickness.

This is the most durable and convenient way to install a Mauerlat, but it has the only drawback: high cost. The anchor, complete with a special dowel equipped with a harpoon, is estimated at more than 3,000 rubles.

Features of creating a truss structure

When the installation of the Mauerlat on the aerated concrete wall is completed, you can select rafter legs, select fasteners and begin creating the roof structure. First, the correctness of all fastenings, the integrity of the armored belt and the Mauerlat are checked, and then you must choose one of two methods of constructing the roof.

1 method

The first method of arranging a rafter system

In the boards that serve as rafters, it is necessary to make a small cut, approximately one-third of the length of the board.
The rafter legs are secured to metal corners. Fixation can be done with nails.
The fasteners must be driven in in a crosswise position, using a pair of elements each time.
A nail is driven in on top of each rafter leg.
Metal corners are attached to the joint.

There is no sawing in the rafters.
A block is attached to the bottom of each element, which serves as a support for the structure.
Nails are driven in according to the same principle as in the first method.

This method is intended for short rafters, since the support beam can have a maximum length of 1 m. The connecting beam is attached only after calculation work has been completed and the quality of the materials has been checked. If you purchase beams with high humidity, there is a risk of making the entire structure unreliable.

If the walls of the bathhouse are made of foam blocks, the best option for the roof is to create a gable structure equipped with a ridge in the central part. In this case, the rafter legs are joined at the ridge using the classic tongue-and-groove system. The length of the rafter legs is selected taking into account several parameters: the full width of the structure (measured along the walls and additional structures), the required slope of the slopes, and weather conditions when assessed for the entire year. If the bathhouse is being built in a climate with a high amount of annual precipitation, a slope of about 50-60 degrees is suitable. The roof overhang is made with an overlap of approximately 50 cm.

To connect the rafters, special brackets are required. The beams should be placed at a distance of 1-1.2 m. The rafter system exhibits excellent performance characteristics not only when constructed correctly, but also when high-quality raw materials are used. You should make sure that the wood chosen is from hard and durable species; complete treatment of the wood with a protective compound is also necessary. When purchasing beams, you need to check that they do not have a large number of knots or defects; the presence of cavities containing resin is also undesirable.

The lathing is performed after the installation of the roof structure frame is completed. It is made from thin boards, so you need to especially monitor their integrity, uniformity and quality. Before installation, you need to make sure the boards are smooth. If they have nicks or unnoticeable knots, you can carry out additional cleaning of the material yourself.

If you use roofing felt or ondulin, then the sheathing should be continuous. Boards should be chosen with a thickness of over 20 mm

Thermal insulation and waterproofing layers should be laid. Recently, the use of mineral wool has become widespread. It must be covered with a special film or additional slab material must be selected. To ensure reliable insulation, insulation materials should be laid evenly along the joints.

Thermal insulation and finishing

Insulation of the bath should begin from the inside, initially affecting the walls and ceiling. It is recommended to use mineral wool as insulation for walls, but you will immediately have to think about waterproofing. The simplest option is to lay aluminum foil on both sides of the insulation.

Insulation of bathhouse walls with penofol

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

The facade of the bath structure is also often insulated. The type of thermal insulation material is selected depending on the finishing coating. Mineral wool is excellent for plastic panels, and polystyrene foam and similar board materials are recommended for decorative plaster.

Floor finishing

Sanded boards or tiles are most suitable for the floor. To ensure that hot air is retained, the floor in the steam room needs to be raised by about 10-20 cm, compared to the dressing room.

Floor in the bathhouse - diagram

If wooden boards are used, the joists are installed first, and then a finishing coating is applied. When a tile is selected, a reinforced concrete screed is first made, and then the modules are laid. For tiles, the mixture is prepared in advance. After laying it, you will have to use moisture-resistant grout for the joints.

Steam room finishing

Inside the steam room, hardwood is used to cover the walls with clapboard. First, a frame is constructed from small bars 5 by 5 cm in half-meter increments. Wooden panels are attached directly to the frame. It is allowed to mount blocks both vertically and horizontally. Sometimes even diagonal insertions are made to form an interesting pattern. Copper or bronze nails can be used to fix wooden elements. Purely iron ones are not suitable, as they may suffer from corrosion over time. This way you can decorate both the walls and the ceiling of the steam room.

Bathhouse cladding - diagram of fixing the lining and the necessary gaps

To make a beautiful and neat bathhouse, you need to do all stages of construction efficiently, following the order of work and listening to the basic recommendations. First, a high-quality foundation is made, then foam blocks are laid out in the established order. The roof and the finishing of all surfaces must also be done with high quality, since with the help of insulating materials and a reliable roof, a comfortable soaring is ensured and invariably lifts the mood.

Video - Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse

Video - Example of building a house from foam blocks

In this article we offer step-by-step instructions for building a bathhouse with your own hands.

What does the foam block consist of?

2. Bathhouse made of foam block step by step

Bathhouse construction project

Preparing the location of the building

How to make a foundation for a bathhouse

How to build bath walls

How to install a bathhouse roof

Interior decoration in the bath

Exterior decoration of the bathhouse

3.Cleaning and maintaining the bathhouse

4. Bathhouse interior design

What decorative items exist for a bath

5 .Aromatherapy in the bath

How to use aromatic oils in a bath

1. Foam block. Pros and cons of choosing a material

What is foam block made of? Foam blocks are made from cement and sand. It is produced using a special technology, which is why the foam block is produced porous. This is done to ensure that the material is light, despite the fact that it is large.

In essence, a foam block is foamed concrete.

pros use of foam blocks in the construction of a bathhouse.

The cost of material for building a foam block bathhouse will be much cheaper. Than, for example, the same building made of brick or wood.
If you compare it with wood, the advantage of the foam block is that insects will not grow in it
Also, foam blocks do not burn. The fire safety of the bathhouse is an important point.
Foam blocks retain heat perfectly. This figure is three times higher than that of brick. Therefore, heating the steam room of a foam block bath will be faster and the heat will stay warm in such a room longer. This will significantly save the cost of fuel wood.
Foam blocks are a fairly lightweight material, this will save money and time on installing the foundation. Because the load on the foundation will not be high.
With strong temperature changes, the foam block will not lose its mechanical and technical characteristics.
The foam block is easy to saw, it will not crumble, for example, like a brick. You can easily cut the foam block with a hacksaw. You do not need to purchase any special equipment for cutting foam blocks.
A foam block structure will not shrink. This is a time saver.
Fungus and mold will not appear in a bathhouse built from foam blocks. Since the foam block consists of concrete, and it does not absorb water well. And it dries very quickly, at temperatures from 18 plus.
The durability of foam blocks is difficult to overestimate. Over time, foam blocks not only do not lose strength, but also increase their strength characteristics. As if they were turning to stone.
The environmental friendliness of the material is another important point. When heated, concrete does not emit substances harmful to the body.
The high speed of building a bathhouse made of foam concrete is also considered an advantage of the material. This is due to the large size of the material, as well as its lightness.
The only one minus The construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks is its aesthetic appearance, compared to wood. But this can be easily fixed by tiling the bathhouse. How to do this is described later in the article.

2. We build a bathhouse with our own hands. Step-by-step instruction.

First step. Bathhouse project.

The beginning of the construction of a bathhouse, like any object, is drawing up a construction plan or drawing.

As the famous proverb says, “Measure twice, cut once.”

This comes in handy at the start of any construction.

At the stage of preparation for the construction of a bathhouse, there is no need to rush.

Important points in preparing a diagram or drawing of a bathhouse. What we pay attention to:

First of all, we decide on the desired number of rooms and floors of the bathhouse.
As a rule, minimally, the bathhouse consists of a guest room or a relaxation room, a steam room, and a washing room. These are the main rooms.
They are also making baths, adding a vestibule to the three previous rooms. This is convenient for placing outerwear, shoes, and storing firewood for the stove.

They also make a toilet, this is convenient when visiting the bathhouse not only in summer, but also in winter.
Sometimes they add a room - a kitchen. Or a kitchen-dining room. This will be convenient if your family and friends like to spend time with a cup of tea or coffee, have a snack, or just chat.
Sometimes covered terraces are attached to the bathhouse, so that after the steam room you can relax in the fresh air, even in the rain.
You can easily find and download ready-made bathhouse projects online. You can also order a bathhouse project from an organization specializing in construction.
The choice and drawing up of a bathhouse drawing depends on your desires, preferences and the budget that you plan to use for this purpose.
As soon as the drawing and the bathhouse construction scheme are drawn up, you can calculate the approximate estimate. When calculating, you will need to take into account that the foam blocks are placed on top of each other edgewise in two layers. These are load-bearing walls. And the partitions are folded in one row.
When calculating the estimate, do not forget to take into account door and window openings. And we add 10% of the cost to the estimate for the calculation error.

Second step. We are preparing the surface of the territory for the construction of a bathhouse.

It is convenient to locate the bathhouse next to a pool, pond, or lake. This is ideal, of course, if such opportunities exist. Then after the steam room you can plunge into cool water in the fresh air.
The easiest way to build a bathhouse will be on a flat, clean surface.
To do this, the site for construction needs to be cleaned, debris removed, stumps and trees uprooted.
The soil must be dense so that the building does not sink into the ground over time.

Step three. We are building a foundation for a bathhouse.

As previously mentioned in the article, foam block is a lightweight material. Therefore, a very complex and expensive foundation for laying foam blocks will not be needed.
Therefore, we take as an example the most suitable foundation option for a foam block building. Tape.

How to make a foundation

First, let's dig a pit to fill the foundation. The width of the pit should be approximately thirty centimeters. Depth, about 60 centimeters.
We mark the perimeter of our building. We install stakes in the corners and the rest of the perimeter with an interval of 150-200 centimeters from each other. We pull a rope and cord on them. Along the entire perimeter of the foundation. For best strength, we drive reinforced rods into the ground around the perimeter of the foundation, at least 1.2 cm thick in diameter.

Next we set up the formwork. For formwork, we take boards about 2.5 cm thick. We place them around the perimeter of the foundation.
Before directly pouring concrete, determine the location for the drain outlet; to do this, place a pipe or pipes in the selected location.
For the foundation, purchase cement of at least grade M200. The brand is indicated on the packages.
The height of the foundation must be at least 70 centimeters. We do not pour the concrete all at once, but in layers.
For complete drying, wait at least three to five days. Periodically, to prevent cracks in the concrete when it dries, water it with water.
After the concrete has completely dried, remove the formwork. When pouring concrete, do not forget to leave ventilation holes. The foundation is insulated properly with layers of mineral wool. To protect against moisture, roofing felt is placed on top of the concrete, preferably two or three layers.

The fourth step is to consider the construction of the walls of your bathhouse.

You can build the walls of a foam block bathhouse quite quickly. This is due to the lightness and simultaneous volume of the material in question. As a rule, a medium-sized bathhouse can be built by one person in a couple of weeks. If there are several people, then even faster.
So, the main rule is to lay foam blocks edge-on. We check the evenness of the installation using a building level when laying each foam block. We must check the level of both the horizontal and vertical position of the block. If necessary, we level it by adding or reducing the layer of cement. The first row of foam blocks is an important point. The entire subsequent masonry of your structure depends on the evenness of the first layer. We level the blocks with a rubber hammer and tap them on the desired sides.

Next, we lay the second row of foam blocks. We place it with an offset of 30-50% of the block. The vertical seams of the blocks should not intersect. Every three to four layers it is recommended to lay construction reinforced mesh to increase the strength of the structure. Do not make seams that are too thick; try to make them no more than 0.5 cm.
When laying foam blocks, do not forget to leave space for door and window openings. Along the perimeter of the openings, also use reinforced construction mesh for strengthening.

Next, to fasten the plates together we use silicate glue, not cement. This glue is sold in all construction stores and is usually diluted with water in a ratio of three to one. Stir with a construction whisk using a drill.

So, the walls are ready. We wait 3-4 days, after which we begin to cover our bathhouse.

We lay the roof of the bathhouse with our own hands. Fifth step.

Let's consider installing the most optimal roof for a building made of foam blocks, this is a gable rafter roof. Such a roof should protrude 50 centimeters from the walls.

For this:
We put timber on the long walls. The thickness of the timber is best suited to 20 centimeters.
Next, we construct a rafter system on the ground. We use beams for this system, the length of which is 50 cm, width 15 cm.
We determine the roof slope that we want to see on our bathhouse. Recommendation for choosing a tilt angle is 45-65 degrees.
We make a triangle from boards of the required size. And we nail the crossbar across inside the “triangle”, attach the transverse rafters and also fix them with crossbars. More details in the photo below.

We install the rafter system on the beam that we laid along the long walls. We secure the rafter system with a notch or special brackets.
Next, we place the same “triangle” on the other side of the roof. We level it, fix it and tighten the cord. We install the remaining “triangles” every 50 centimeters.
Next we have the sheathing. We place on top of our “triangles” We take planks 10 centimeters wide and 40 centimeters long.

We secure the boards with self-tapping screws. Choose the distance between the boards so that it is convenient to install the insulation you have chosen.
The next step is to create the ceiling. This is the first ceiling. It's rough. For such a ceiling, take boards 2-3 centimeters thick. We fasten the boards between the rafter systems and put insulation.
Don't forget to leave a couple of ventilation holes for air circulation.
Next, we put corrugated sheeting or whatever you chose for the roof of your bathhouse. And we put on the “horse”.

Sixth step. Interior decoration of the bathhouse.

The main point in the bathhouse is the waterproofing of the walls from frequent steam effects.
For waterproofing, we treat the walls with special products (a huge variety of them are presented on the shelves of our construction stores and markets). Next, we cover the walls with PET film. To ensure that the walls are well ventilated, we leave a gap between the wall and the wall sheathing of about five or six centimeters.

We place the sheathing on the film, and attach foil to the sheathing for vapor barrier. Next we cover the walls. The most famous material for cladding bath walls is lining. The lining is attached with nails or screws around the entire perimeter
In the washing room it would be advisable to use tiles or special polymer-based paint.

Seventh step. Exterior decoration of the bathhouse.

The appearance of a bathhouse made of foam blocks does not look very beautiful, so siding panels or plaster are often used for exterior decoration, depending on what you like.

3.Cleaning and maintaining the bathhouse

In order for a bathhouse built by your own hands to please you and your loved ones for a long time, you need to take something into account when caring for it.
Do not wash the wooden finishing of the steam room and other rooms where the walls are lined with clapboard with strong water pressure, and do not overly moisten the wood.
After taking the procedures, wipe the surfaces with a dry cotton cloth to speed up the drying process. Cover containers with water with lids to reduce water evaporation. To clean surfaces, use products designed for wooden surfaces.

Leave the steam room oven running for a short time after taking the procedures, this will allow the bath to dry thoroughly. The time for which the stove should be left in operation depends on the area of the bathhouse where water is present. For a medium-sized bathhouse, half an hour is enough to dry the premises.
The indoor air can be made more pleasant with the help of essential oils. Do not put oil on the stones for this. The oil can burn and it will only get worse. Just place a small container of water next to the stove, add aromatic oil to the water, with a pleasant smell for you.

4. Bathhouse interior design

With the design of a bathhouse, just like with the design of any other room.

There are hundreds of thousands of options. And it all depends on your imagination, your desire and the means at your disposal.

There are national design options, such as Russian bath, Japanese sauna, Turkish, etc.

Below are photos of bathhouse design ideas.

Choose according to your taste.

5 .Aromatherapy in the bath

What aromatic oils to use in a bath
As a rule, the same smell affects different people differently. Surely you have your own preferences for aromas, but keep in mind that odors in a steam room are revealed differently than outside one.
One person may like the smell of pine needles, for example, for another, this smell can evoke emotions that are completely opposite to positive ones.
The main thing is not to mix smells. Do not use more than three or four types of essential oil aromas during bathing procedures. Mixing more odors in a hot, humid room can make you feel sick.
Useful oils for baths:
Grapefruit oil will remove or greatly dull the feeling of hunger.
Peppermint, string, and burdock oils have regenerating properties.
For psoriasis - pine, aloe, chamomile, rhubarb.
Against inflammation - nettle, elderberry, calendula.
After visiting a fragrant bath, you should refrain from smoking and alcohol for a couple of hours. This may contribute to the loss of therapeutic effect.

You might be interested

A do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks involves phased construction. First you need to decide on the type of bath. There are three common types:

Washing bath. It is constructed for utilitarian purposes for washing. It consists of two compartments: a small dressing room for clothes with a stove firebox, a steam room and a shower room combined. The dimensions are small - 2 x 3 m on average. If you really want to, you can take a steam bath. A widespread type of bathhouse throughout the country.
Bathhouse with steam room. Built by connoisseurs to take a steam bath with a broom. Sizes start from 16 square meters (4 x 4 m). A full-fledged bathhouse with several rooms: a dressing room, a shower and a steam room.
Bath complex on one or two floors. Building with its own. Year-round communications - hot and cold water. In addition to the steam room and shower, a relaxation room, a bathroom, and a sauna with dry and hot air are being built. A separate vestibule with a furnace firebox and a veranda are arranged.

Any type of bathhouse can be easily erected from foam blocks. The project depends on the budget and availability of space for construction. The best option for placing a bathhouse is an extension to the main residence. In this case, hot and cold water are supplied.

Exemplary bathhouse - with a separate steam room. Then you won't have to wash in the scalding air. A dressing room with a place to relax will improve your emotional mood. A separate vestibule is built for the stove, where firewood and brooms are stored. The rooms will always remain clean - wood chips and smoke will not bother anyone. The built summer veranda and barbecue will replace a separate gazebo.

we determine the location of construction;
We prepare a detailed construction project;
We calculate the required amount of building materials;
carefully select foam blocks and cement;
prepare tools and equipment;
pour the foundation;
we install a drain;
We waterproof the basement and interior spaces;
we build walls;
we build a roof;
We complete the interior and exterior decoration.

After we’ve made the drawings, counted the blocks and found a suitable location, we get to work. It will take 2-3 weeks to pour the foundation, taking into account the complete hardening of the cement. Construction will take the same amount of time. In total, it will take a month and a half to erect the building with your own hands.

Calculation and selection of materials

Gas silicate blocks are not suitable for the construction of structures with high humidity due to open pores in their structure. Gas silicate bricks are suitable for and houses. Foam concrete, which has the same density and weight, has closed pores in the form of air bubbles. Hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) of the material is at the level of 15% (brick - up to 5%, concrete - 4.6%, aerated concrete - 35-40%, wood - up to 30%, but moisture loss is very fast). Bricks with this indicator are suitable for the construction of excessively moistened structures.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam concrete

Some people will be wary of the choice of foam concrete blocks. Let's consider the positive and negative qualities of the material.

Foam blocks, in addition to hygroscopicity, have other advantages:

excellent thermal insulation properties comparable to wood;
the cost of building materials is relatively low, construction will cost half as much as a similar building made of wood;
foam blocks do not shrink;
foam concrete is a non-flammable material;
does not rot, environmentally friendly filler;
the constructed premises are used immediately after finishing;
large block sizes guarantee quick construction and low glue consumption;
one person can build a building;
low weight of the structure;
soundproof due to the cellular structure;
ease of storage and transportation;
the sufficient strength of foam concrete allows the construction of load-bearing walls for buildings up to three floors.

Flaws:

high strength, increasing with increasing density. This has the opposite effect - the thermal insulation properties decrease;
special fasteners for cellular structures are required - anchors, dowels;
poor quality of products from small manufacturers who do not properly maintain manufacturing technology;
construction is carried out before frost. The glue used loses its properties in the cold;
The hygroscopicity of foam blocks is quite high, so additional internal and external insulation is required.

Important! Use interior spaces only after finishing. The stove heats the walls to a red-hot state - it is easy to get a severe burn.

The construction of structures made of foam concrete is advisable when there is a lack of funds and time. A brick or concrete bathhouse, depending on the readiness of the base, takes more than one year to build.

Calculation of material requirements

For the construction of load-bearing walls, a standard M25 block with the following dimensions is used: width 200 mm, height 300 mm, length 600 mm. Density – D700, allowing the construction of strong load-bearing walls. For internal partitions, blocks with a width of 100 mm and a lower density are used.

The required number of blocks per building is calculated by the formula: ((wall length / foam block length 60 cm) * (wall height / block height 30 cm) * 2 + (wall width / foam block length) * (wall height / block height) * 2) – 7 blocks per door ((height 210 cm / block height 30 cm) * 1 (opening width 60 cm / block length 60 cm)) – 2 blocks per window (60 cm by 60 cm) * number of windows.

For internal partitions, doors and openings, the calculation is carried out in a similar way. As a result, the blocks are added and we get the required number.

Selecting blocks before purchasing

Before purchasing foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection. The surface should be smooth, without flaws. We use little tricks:

you can try to break off a piece from the corner of the brick - a high-quality foam block should not break;
The nail should not penetrate into the surface of the product by hand.

If you manage to break off a piece from a block or stick a nail into it with a density of D700, this is a low-quality product. However, partition bricks with a density of D300 are destroyed by hand.

foam blocks should be stored in a dry place, well packaged;
It is advisable to buy products from large manufacturers with a quality certificate;
the price of products should not be lower than the market price;
After production, a fresh block “ripens” for about a month;
in the cross-section of the block, the cells are the same size, small and isolated from each other;
color – uniform, gray;
foam blocks have the same size and weight.

Other materials

Other building materials will be needed for construction.

For the foundation:

sand;
gravel;
cement;
plumbing pipes for drainage;
frame reinforcement;
boards for formwork.

Walling:

roofing felt for cutting;
cement for the first row;
reinforcement for strengthening masonry;
glue for connecting blocks.

Roof installation:

beams, anchors or studs, roofing felt for installing a Mauerlat;
thick board for rafters;
thin board for sheathing;
boards for roof cladding and ceiling construction;
insulating material;
insulation;
corrugated sheet (metal tile);
ridge on the roof;
metal corners for fastening;
self-tapping screws for metal and wood.

Interior finishing:

a finished stove for a steam room or sheet metal for manufacturing;
floor board;
board for shelves;
ceramic tiles (non-slippery) for finishing the shower;
cement;
ready-made mixtures for finishing;
mineral insulation, vapor barrier material, aluminum tape;
lining and cranial beam for fastening;
nails;
stones for the stove.

Exterior finish:

putty mixtures;
polystyrene foam or insulation;
special insulation fasteners;
cranial beam or metal profile;
decorative panels.

You will need a plastic film to protect against precipitation during construction. It is used to insulate the foundation, and subsequently the entire building, until the roof is erected.

Equipment and tools

To build a bathhouse with your own hands from foam blocks, you need equipment and tools.

Tools:

shovels – bayonet, scoop and mortar;
hammer-pick;
rubber mallet or mallet;
plumb line;
building level;
rule;
jointing;
trowel or trowel;
mooring cord;
spatulas;
notched spatula;
hacksaw;
roulette;
hammer.

Equipment:

concrete mixer;
container for diluting glue, cement and water;
drill with whisk attachment;
perforator;
screwdriver;
wall chaser;
deep vibrator for removing air from the solution;
stapler;

The project has been drawn, building materials and tools have been prepared, we move on to building a bathhouse.

Construction of the foundation for the building

The selected site for construction is thoroughly cleaned of debris and all organic components: grass, leaves, branches, roots. The site is leveled. After pouring the foundation, the fertile soil inside the future premises is removed.

Selecting and pouring the foundation

The choice of the type of foundation for the construction of a bathhouse is a key condition for the strength of the future building. A foundation defect will destroy the building within a few years. The base should not crack, warp or crumble. Close occurrence of groundwater, a strong slope of the site or loose soil will require the creation of a grillage or monolithic foundation. If you have ordinary dense soil, you can get by with a strip foundation that is not very deep. Deep digging will be required for looser soil. The foundation must be buried below the freezing point of the soil in the presence of sandy and clayey soils. In winter, the areas around buildings are not cleared of snow - snow cover reduces the depth of freezing.

Ready foundation foam blocks are laid using a crane or other special equipment, then the speed of construction will increase by an order of magnitude. Such installation is possible if there are access roads to the site.

The width of the bathhouse foundation is selected taking into account the width of the building block - it should be a little wider. In our case - 300 mm. The depth should be at least 80 cm, taking into account the laying of a sand and gravel cushion. A trench is dug 50 cm wide to install formwork and spacers. The foundation rises 15-20 cm above the level of the site. The resulting height - 80 cm of concrete - is sufficient for a lightweight building made of foam concrete.

The construction of the basement is divided into stages:

For the trench we make markings using cast-offs. Nails are driven into a board 60 cm wide at a distance of 50 cm. The board is attached to a post, which is driven into the ground beyond the intended foundation. We make at least 8 such cast-offs. A cord is pulled between them on the nails. This results in a clearly marked outline of the foundation. Instead of a board, simple metal pins are used. If necessary, the cord can be removed.
We dig a trench. Large lumps are removed entirely. The stones will be useful for constructing a stove.
We fill the bottom of the trench with sand or a sand-gravel mixture 20–30 cm thick. Wet sand will do. The mixture is compacted tightly and watered.
We make formwork from boards or plywood. Thickness and strength are adjustable using spacers.
We knit a frame for concrete reinforcement from reinforcement with a thickness of 12 mm. The frame mesh is at least 15 cm.
Fill the trench with ready-made concrete (grade M200, M250). Concrete is made from a sand-gravel mixture and cement in the ratio: sand 3 parts, gravel 5 parts, cement 1 part. The filling process is continuous. Breaks of up to 3 hours are allowed.
Air is removed from the concrete using a vibrator or a regular pin.
The finished foundation is covered with a film to protect it from sunlight and precipitation. Every 2 - 3 hours the concrete is moistened. We remove the formwork on the 3rd day.

There are no ventilation holes. If the foundation is very deep, it is necessary to equip a hole for the sewer pipe.

Important! During the work process, you need to periodically check with a building level how level the foundation is.

Sewerage installation and base waterproofing

Work resumes after the formwork is removed. We remove the fertile layer of soil and install a sewer drain with a wastewater receiver - a plastic or metal pipe. The pipe must have a slope for natural drainage of water. We fill the base of the bathhouse with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, and on top - a layer of gravel or expanded clay 15 cm thick. We thoroughly compact the soil. Then we lay a metal grid for reinforcement. We make the screed: fill the prepared surface with concrete 15 cm thick.

Outside the foundation, a similar waterproofing pad at least half a meter wide is made and a cement blind area is laid. We make a monolithic base for the stove.

Construction of walls - masonry technology

The foundation will be ready in three weeks, after which we will continue work. We arrange a cut-off - waterproofing the walls from the base. To do this, we use two layers of roofing felt or bikrost along the width of the foundation. Using a level, we check the foundation for slope. If necessary, level it. Only after this we proceed to the construction of walls from foam concrete blocks.

Laying walls is the fastest and easiest construction process. The first layer of foam blocks, from the corner, must be laid on cement, the remaining blocks are held together with special glue. The adhesive layer is allowed no thicker than 0.5 cm. This layer firmly glues the blocks together and prevents the formation of “cold bridges.” The glue is mixed in a container with a drill with an attachment from the finished mixture.

The blocks are leveled using a level and plumb line. Correction of unevenness is carried out with a rubber hammer. Uneven blocks are ground with a float or sawed off with a hacksaw. Foam concrete is cut into pieces in any proportion with a saw.

The laying of each subsequent layer is carried out with the blocks shifted by half from the underlying one. Using a wall chaser, grooves are made in the masonry layers into which the reinforcement is placed. Every third layer is reinforced, more often if possible. Vertical reinforcement is used - concrete is poured into a drilled hole made of two blocks and reinforcement is pressed.

Openings for doors and windows must be left during construction. The blocks above the openings are placed on a board or sheet of metal.

Roof installation

The constructed walls are kept for a couple of days until completely dry, after which the ceiling is installed and the roof is erected. The building is completely covered with a film from precipitation.

Types of floors

Monolithic ceiling. Formwork is mounted on vertical supports, a mesh for reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The result is a strong, durable and fireproof floor.
Floors made of hollow slabs and beams. For the ceiling, ready-made blocks are installed by crane. The result is a type of monolithic ceiling.
Prefabricated ceiling. The ceiling is mounted from wooden or metal beams. A board or plywood is attached to the bottom, and insulation is laid on top. The fastest and most cost-effective way to erect a ceiling above your head. The ceiling is made both before and after the construction of the roof.

Making a roof

We begin the construction of the roof by insulating the wall with roofing felt around the perimeter. We make a mauerlat from timber for the top of the wall. We lay the timber on the wall without breaks. We fasten the tree with special studs or threaded anchors. If the building area is large and the walls are thick, a reinforced concrete belt is installed to lay the mauerlat. The wood is coated with impregnation to prevent rotting and fire. The final coating is applied with bitumen or polymer liquids. The wood is dried before use. As the raw timber dries on the roof, it is tightened with a stud nut.

The roof is mounted gable. The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the humidity of the climate - the more precipitation, the sharper the angle. The best option is a tilt angle of 60 degrees. The overhang of the roof (roof overlap) relative to the walls must be at least 50 cm. The resulting rough ceiling is insulated and covered with boards. Ebb tides are mounted on it.

To install ready-made rafters assembled on the ground, you will need an assistant. For convenience, one worker installs the racks and cross beams into a groove made of thick boards in the center of the ceiling. This option allows you to easily mount rafters of any configuration. The pitch of the rafters is 1 meter. The rafters are attached to the mauerlat with a metal corner using self-tapping screws. We fasten the boards on top with an overlap using self-tapping screws. A more complex system is a tenon in a groove. Additional fastening of rafters - transverse boards. Then, during strong winds, the roof will remain intact for a long time. The disadvantage of such fasteners is the lack of free passage through the attic, then you will have to look for another place to store brooms.

We fill the finished rafters with a thin sheathing of thin boards. We fasten the corrugated sheet with metal screws. We install a metal ridge on top. The gables of the attic are covered with boards. Plastic panels are used for beauty. We install a door, window and ventilation holes on the gables.

Interior and exterior finishing

We begin finishing and arrangement with the steam room as the main goal of our construction. The work is carried out in stages:

furnace installation;
installation of windows and doors;
waterproofing of premises;
façade waterproofing;
finishing.

We install a metal stove - a heater - on a monolithic base. On the heater we provide space for stones to generate steam and heat water in the bathing container. The stove in the firebox area is lined with bricks to avoid contact with foam blocks. We paint the stove with non-flammable paint. The chimney is covered with a cap.

Important! The chimney must pass through a metal sheet. Contact with wood and insulation is excluded to avoid fire.

Installation of doors and windows

The door and hatch to the steam room are made of wood. We provide wide edges on the loot to retain heat and steam. The remaining doors and windows are made of any material, preferably plastic.

Decorating the walls and floors of the steam room

At the last stage of work, the most important thing is waterproofing the premises. The steam room is covered entirely with wood, preferably hardwood, including the floor. Tiles in a steam room heated to 100 degrees can burn your feet. Laying tiles and adding wooden gratings on top is disrespect for your work.

An additional waterproofing film or roofing felt is laid on the rough cement floor. The floor is pre-treated with bitumen mastic. Only after this the logs are laid and the floor is assembled from the board.

Important! Waterproofing materials must be harmless and withstand high temperatures.

Waterproofing walls and ceilings is carried out in the following sequence:

a beam or board 40 millimeters thick is attached horizontally to the walls;
insulation is laid in the gaps of the sheathing. Mineral wool is compressed before installation. When straightened, it leaves no gaps;
the walls are covered with construction foil. Fastening is done with a stapler;
joints are sealed with aluminum tape;
The lining is secured with nails.

The steam room is ready, the next stage is finishing the remaining rooms.

Finishing the shower and dressing room

The shower room is completely tiled, with the exception of the ceiling. A layer of putty, glue and tiles will serve as a reliable waterproofing coating against moisture. The seams of the floor tiles are sealed with water-repellent putty, otherwise there is a risk of moisture getting into the cracks and destroying the floor, and subsequently the foundation. Ventilation openings must be provided.

Important! Water drainage in the shower room will be better if there is a slight slope in the room. We tilt towards the receiver.

The dressing room is equipped to your liking, just like an ordinary room. Following the general concept, we cover it with clapboard, including coniferous wood. We treat the lining with impregnation and antiseptic. Ceramic tiles are perfect for arranging the floor and the furnace firebox area.

Facade waterproofing

The outside walls, if nothing else is planned, must be puttied to prevent precipitation. Next, decorative plaster or siding is applied.

Conclusion

Building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is an excellent alternative to the costly involvement of construction companies. Construction of the building will not cost much, because foam concrete is one of the best materials in terms of price and quality ratio. If all the rules are followed, the construction will be of high quality and durable.

2018-04-08

A cheaper alternative to a permanent brick bathhouse or one built from rounded logs is a bathhouse made from foam blocks. Foam block has proven itself very well as a heat-intensive, inexpensive masonry material. Next, we will look at the other advantages of foam blocks, and also provide you with useful tips on building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands!

Article
Video

Advantages of foam blocks for the construction of a bathhouse

Foam blocks are large-sized blocks (compared to size) made of cellular concrete (foaming + cement mortar). Today there are many manufacturers of foam blocks, and the material itself is available on any construction market.

The advantages of foam block are as follows:

Foam blocks have large dimensions and low weight, which has a positive effect on the labor intensity of work when transporting material and building a bathhouse from foam blocks.
The material has excellent heat capacity (it holds heat several times better than brick)
Foam block has a relatively low cost
Cellular concrete has high strength and durability
Even an inexperienced summer resident can build a bathhouse from foam blocks (which cannot be said about)
In order to cut off part of the foam block, you can use a hacksaw (or even a sharp knife)
Fire resistant material

It should also be noted that the foam block has several significant disadvantages, which spoil the popularity of the material:

Foam block is not able to withstand heavy loads, so it is recommended to build a maximum of 2-3 storey buildings from this material
Cellular concrete absorbs moisture well, which is why the foam block is a sponge and requires additional measures to waterproof the bathhouse

Despite the fact that a bathhouse made of foam blocks has two significant drawbacks, they can be easily refuted. Firstly, a bathhouse in a country house can be a maximum of 2-story building, so a foam block can easily withstand the weight of such a structure. Secondly, any bathhouse requires additional waterproofing measures, besides, all that is needed is to treat the foam block with special hydrophobic impregnations on the outside and cover it with foil material on the inside of the building.

Before you proceed directly to building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, we will provide you with the technology for calculating the required number of foam blocks.

Calculation of a bathhouse made of foam blocks

Before you start building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, you need to create a bathhouse project, as well as create an estimate for building materials.

As for the bathhouse project, you can familiarize yourself with it in the article: do it yourself. Not only the bathhouse designs, but also the construction technology itself in this case are similar.

Now let's move on to calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks. In order not to encounter a situation where you lack about 10 blocks before the end of construction of the bathhouse, or there are more than 50 blocks left after construction, you need to correctly calculate the bathhouse made of foam blocks.

To do this, it is necessary to divide the calculation technology into 3 groups. The first group is load-bearing walls, their thickness will be equal to 2 blocks laid on edge. The dimensions of the blocks in this case should be 200*300*600 mm. The second group is the internal walls of the bathhouse made of foam blocks, which are laid flat in one row. In this case, block sizes must be used similar to the first. Not the last, third group - which also need to be laid out flat in one row, but only from blocks measuring 100*300*600 mm.

We have decided on the classification of groups, now let’s consider the very essence of calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks. Each block has its own volume (width times height and length). By simple calculations you can determine the volume of each wall of the bathhouse (the formula is similar). After this, calculate the volume that the windows and doors in the bathhouse will occupy (the formula is again the same). Well, in the end, it is necessary to subtract the volume of doors and windows from the total volume of the walls and divide the resulting result by the volume of one block. You will get the required number of blocks to build a bathhouse. As with any calculations, when calculating a bathhouse made of foam blocks, there is always an error of 5%. Also, about 5% of foam blocks can be destroyed during transportation (you can find out the exact % from the manufacturer or seller). That is why you need to add another 10% to the final result of the number of blocks, this will be the number of foam blocks that you will need to build a bathhouse with your own hands.

In addition to foam blocks, you will also need building materials such as:

Cement
Sand
Concrete
Reinforcement bars, 12 mm thick
Knitting wire
Lumber
Sewer pipes
Fastening elements (nails, screws, metal corners, etc.)
Corrugated sheet
Brick
Materials for insulation, steam and waterproofing of baths
Windows and doors
Finishing materials (, etc.)
Electrical wiring and lighting
Polyurethane foam

This is the minimum of the materials needed to create a bathhouse with your own hands. Based on superficial calculations, the construction of a bathhouse made of foam blocks measuring 6*3 meters will require about 120,000 rubles (including the delivery of materials).

Now let’s look at the technology for building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands

How to build a bathhouse from foam blocks?

General information

In this article we will not consider in detail each stage of the construction of a bathhouse made of foam blocks, because The stages of creating any bathhouse have already been fully discussed separately.

As we have already said, the technology of building a bathhouse from foam blocks has much in common with the technology of building a bathhouse from expanded clay concrete, the only difference is in the features of laying the foam block, which we will discuss below.

To familiarize yourself in detail with each stage of bathhouse construction, we recommend that you read the following articles:

Now we’ll talk in more detail about how to lay foam blocks when building a bathhouse with your own hands.

Laying foam blocks

It should be noted that today there are several main sizes of foam blocks, but for the construction of a bathhouse it is recommended to use a block with dimensions of 200*300*600 mm and a density of D700.

So, the laying of foam blocks must be done on edge, while the first row of blocks must be laid not with cement-sand mortar, but the remaining rows with a special adhesive mixture. Please note that the seams between the blocks should be thin - 5 mm, because... large seams will worsen the thermal capacity of the building (a so-called cold bridge is formed).

Every fourth row of foam block masonry must be additionally reinforced with fine-mesh metal mesh.

It should be noted that when building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, experts advise using not a construction level, but a laser level, which has higher accuracy.

We also draw your attention to the fact that it is recommended to apply the adhesive mixture to the foam block with a special trowel, and lay the block using a rubber hammer.

Although the structure of the foam block differs from the gas block, the technology for laying the materials is absolutely the same, so you can see the entire process of building a bathhouse in this video lesson:

Video tutorial on building a bathhouse from blocks

Well, the last thing I wanted to tell you is tips for building a bathhouse from foam blocks.

What should you pay attention to?

When building a bathhouse from foam blocks, many questions may arise, such as: “Which foundation is best suited?”, “How to insulate the bathhouse?”, “What material to use for lining the bathhouse inside and out?”, so now we will briefly tell you about how to properly build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands.

The most suitable foundation for building a bathhouse made of foam blocks is a strip foundation, which should be located at a depth of about 60 cm. The width of the strip foundation should be 30 cm.

There is no point in externally insulating a bathhouse from a foam block, but it is recommended to insulate the bathhouse from the inside using mineral wool.

Preface

What could be better for your health than taking a steam bath? Probably spend this unforgettable time in your own bathhouse, built with your own hands. For this purpose, the use of natural material will be important. Let's pay attention to how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks.

Required tools and materials

Sand Vapor barrier film Armature

DIY eco-friendly sauna

The most environmentally friendly material used in any construction is wood. But not everyone can afford to build. Therefore, to reduce the cost of construction, we can recommend, which is quite popular among natural materials. After all, it contains only sand, lime, cement, which are natural elements.

Among the main qualities of this material are thermal insulation properties. Thanks to its cellular structure, the material retains heat in the room and prevents walls from freezing. A bathhouse made from foam blocks with your own hands is an ideal option. Such a structure does not emit any harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Foundation for a bathhouse - important nuances

To build a cinder block bathhouse, the first step is to decide on what support the house will stand. Since such a structure will not be too heavy, a columnar foundation can be used. With this option, the walls rest on pillars that stand separately from each other. This option is the cheapest compared to other types of foundation.

Before choosing this foundation for a bathhouse, you need to find out what type of soil is at the construction site. Such a basis cannot be used everywhere. In order for a bathhouse made of foam blocks, built with your own hands, to stand firmly, soil made of fine gravel, fine-grained sand, clay and loam is most suitable. But if the soil is weak-bearing, then it is better to consider a different type of foundation, for example, a strip foundation.

Installing foundation pillars

For support pillars, it will be necessary to dig holes to a depth below the soil freezing level (2 m). First of all, this is done in corners and places where walls intersect. It is recommended to place the pillars along the wall at a distance of 150–200 cm from each other. The weight of the structure will be distributed among all the pillars. Thanks to this, the load on each individual pillar will be reduced.

It is recommended to make the diameter of the post within 30–60 cm. You can dig holes either manually or using professional special drills. They are designed for drilling wells for similar types of foundations. They have expanding blades, thanks to which you can cut off the edges at the bottom of the hole - you get a well with an expansion at the bottom.

Before constructing the pillars, it is necessary to make a cushion of gravel and sand in the dug holes. It is recommended to fill it to 20–30 cm. Therefore, it is better to make a well with an appropriate reserve.

The pillars themselves are formed from brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. The second method is the simplest and most convenient to use. After all, it is enough to make a frame from reinforcement and fill it with concrete. To prevent soil from pouring into the hole during pouring and hardening of the concrete solution, it will be necessary to install a spacer or formwork. To do this, you must make the well 30–40 cm wider. We recommend making the formwork 40–50 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to obtain a gap between the future floor and the ground. This will reduce the impact of moisture on the walls.

After the formwork is installed, we form a frame from reinforcement. This will require rods 10–15 mm in diameter. The tying can be done with a special thick wire every 20–30 cm along the entire length of the rods. If a columnar foundation with a grillage is used (a monolithic reinforced concrete beam lying on all pillars), it is better to make the reinforcement bars 20 cm higher. This is required in order to tie together the pillar reinforcement and grillage.

For a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the length of the reinforcement will have to be made even greater. Here it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the belt, increasing the length of the rods by it. The concrete solution must be poured gradually, 30 cm at a time. Be sure to use a hand vibrator or at least an ordinary metal rod to compact the solution. This is necessary so that no air remains inside the mixture, which can reduce the strength of concrete.

Increasing foundation strength

After the solution has hardened and the pillars have gained strength, you can begin to form a reinforced concrete monolithic grillage belt (to ensure the stability and longitudinal rigidity of the foundation). To create a grillage, you will have to mount horizontal formwork. The size of the belt itself should be no less than 40x40 cm. We recommend making a gap between the ground and the grillage of at least 10 cm. This will protect the reinforced belt from winter heaving of the soil.

It is better to use 15 mm reinforcement in the grillage. In addition to horizontal rods, it is imperative to lay vertical ones - for connection with the reinforcement frame of the floor. The rods should protrude above the grillage by 30 cm. It is better to place them every 150 cm. Once all this is done, you can begin installing the formwork for the bathhouse floor, creating a floor reinforcement frame and pouring concrete.

Strong and reliable bath walls

To build a bathhouse from foam blocks, you need to properly raise its walls. To do this, just follow the step-by-step instructions.