Washing machines, like any other type of equipment, become obsolete and fail over time. We, of course, can put the old washing machine somewhere, or disassemble it for spare parts. If you went the latter route, then you might still have a washing machine motor that could serve you well.

The motor from an old washing machine can be adapted in the garage and made into an electric sander. To do this, you need to attach an emery stone to the motor shaft, which will rotate. And you can sharpen various objects on it, from knives to axes and shovels. Agree, this thing is quite necessary in the household. You can also use the engine to build other devices that require rotation, for example, an industrial mixer or something else.

Write in the comments what you decided to make from an old washing machine motor, we think many will find it very interesting and useful to read.

If you have figured out what to do with the old motor, then the first question that may bother you is how to connect the electric motor from the washing machine to a 220 V network. And it is precisely this question that we will help you find the answer to in this instruction.

Before you begin directly connecting the motor, you must first familiarize yourself with the electrical diagram, which will make everything clear.

Connecting the motor from the washing machine to a 220 Volt network should not take you much time. First, look at the wires that come from the engine, at first it may seem that there are quite a lot of them, but in fact, if you look at the above diagram, we do not need all of them. Specifically, we are only interested in the wires of the rotor and stator.

Dealing with the wires

If you look at the block with wires from the front, then usually the first two left wires are tachometer wires, through which the speed of the washing machine engine is regulated. We don't need them. In the image they are white and crossed out with an orange cross.

Next comes the red and brown stator wires. We marked them with red arrows to make it more clear. Following them are two wires to the rotor brushes - gray and green, which are marked with blue arrows. We will need all the wires indicated by the arrows for connection.

To connect the motor from the washing machine to a 220 V network, we do not need a starting capacitor, and the motor itself does not need a starting winding.

In different models of washing machines, the wires will differ in color, but the connection principle remains the same. You just need to find the necessary wires by testing them with a multimeter.

To do this, switch the multimeter to measure resistance. Touch the first wire with one probe, and look for its pair with the second.

A working tachogenerator in a quiet state usually has a resistance of 70 Ohms. You will find these wires immediately and put them aside.

Just connect the rest of the wires and find pairs for them.

We connect the motor from the automatic washing machine

After we found the wires we needed, we just had to connect them. To do this we do the following.

According to the diagram, you need to connect one end of the stator winding to the rotor brush. To do this, it is most convenient to make a jumper and insulate it.


In the image, the jumper is highlighted in green.

After this, we are left with two wires: one end of the rotor winding and the wire going to the brush. They are what we need. We connect these two ends to the 220 V network.

As soon as you apply voltage to these wires, the motor will immediately start rotating. Washing machine motors are quite powerful, so be careful to avoid injury. It is best to pre-mount the motor on a flat surface.

If you want to change the rotation of the engine in the other direction, then you just need to transfer the jumper to other contacts and swap the wires of the rotor brushes. Look at the diagram to see what it looks like.


If you did everything correctly, the motor will begin to rotate. If this does not happen, then check the engine for performance and only then draw conclusions.
Connecting the motor of a modern washing machine is quite simple, which cannot be said about old machines. Here the scheme is a little different.

Connecting the motor of an old washing machine

Connecting the motor of an old washing machine is a little more complicated and will require you to find the necessary windings yourself using a multimeter. In order to find the wires, ring the motor windings and find a pair.


To do this, switch the multimeter to measure resistance, touch the first wire with one end, and find its pair in turn with the other. Write down or remember the winding resistance - we will need it.

Then, similarly, find the second pair of wires and fix the resistance. We ended up with two windings with different resistances. Now you need to determine which of them is working and which is starting. Everything is simple here, the resistance of the working winding should be less than that of the starting winding.

To start an engine of this type, you will need a button or a start relay. A button is needed with a non-fixed contact and, for example, a doorbell button will do.

Now we connect the engine and the button according to the diagram: But the excitation winding (OB) is directly supplied with 220 V. The same voltage must be applied to the starting winding (SW), only to start the engine for a short period of time, and turn it off - this is why the button is needed ( SB).

We connect the OB directly to the 220V network, and connect the software to the 220V network via the SB button.

• PO – starting winding. Intended only for starting the engine and is activated at the very beginning until the engine begins to rotate.
• OB – excitation winding. This is the working winding, which is constantly in operation; it rotates the engine all the time.
• SB is a button that applies voltage to the starting winding and turns it off after starting the motor.

After you have made all the connections, just start the engine from the washing machine. To do this, press the SB button and, as soon as the engine starts to rotate, release it.

In order to reverse (motor rotation in the opposite direction), you need to swap the contacts of the software winding. This will cause the motor to start rotating in the other direction.

That's it, now the motor from the old washing machine can serve you as a new device.

Before starting the engine, be sure to secure it on a flat surface, since its rotation speed is quite high.

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No matter how high-quality household appliances are, they eventually become unusable. The same fate awaits washing machines, but they can be given a second life. It doesn’t matter when the household appliances were purchased; even the old Soviet Riga will be used. How connecting the motor from a washing machine to other appliances can make life easier will be described in detail later in the article.

Where can an electric motor be used?

Craftsmen have come up with dozens of options for using a motor from an old washing machine. But they all have the same concept - using the engine torque to start the operation of additional mechanisms. The following options are considered the most popular homemade products.

But before you start disassembling your washing machine, you should find out the type of electric motor you have. This will allow you to determine the scope of its application and the method of starting from the mains.

Types of engines

Important! There are only three types of motors installed on washing machines: asynchronous, commutator and direct (inverter).

Asynchronous

An asynchronous motor was installed in cars produced in the USSR (Riga-60, Vyatka-automatic). It consists of two parts: stator and rotor. The motor got its name because inability to rotate synchronously with the magnetic field(constantly lags behind). There are two options for an asynchronous motor: two- and three-phase. Older models (for example, Riga) had two-phase motors installed. But with the advent of the new millennium, such engines almost ceased to be produced.

Asynchronous motor of the washing machine Vyatka

Main dignity asynchronous motor:

• simple design;
• maintenance is limited to changing oil and bearings;
• minimum noise level during operation;
• cheapness.

Disadvantages The electric motors of the Donbass washing machine and other older models are considered to be dimensions, high electricity consumption and difficulty of setting.

To get an asynchronous motor(for example, from a Malyutka washing machine), you will have to disassemble the entire body. Then loosen the motor mounts, remove the belt and disconnect the retaining ring. After this, all that remains is to remove the pulley from the shaft and disconnect the electrical wires from the clamps.

Electric motor of the Malyutka washing machine

Collector

The commutator electric motor gradually began to displace the asynchronous motor from the household appliances market. The main advantage of its design is the ability to operate on both alternating and direct current. The rotation speed of the rotor directly depends on the applied voltage. In addition, such motors are capable of rotating in both directions. Commutator motors are found in most household appliances. So, they can be found in washing machines of the following models: INDESCO, C.E.S.E.T., WELLING, SELNI, FHP, SOLE, ACC.

Strengths of this device are:

• a large number of revolutions;
• smooth speed increase;
• compactness.

TO weaknesses can be attributed to a short lifespan.

Important! Often such motors break down due to an interturn short circuit, that is, the contacts on the rotor and commutator touch. Therefore, the magnetic field is weakened and the drum stops rotating.

The direct (inverter or brushless) type of electric motors is found only in modern models of washing machines (for example, Indesit). This technology hit the market just ten years ago. Unlike the previously mentioned designs, the motor is directly connected to the drum, without the use of intermediate parts.

TO pros automatic inverter motor include:

• long service life;
• wear resistance;
• compactness.

Main minus- high cost of production, which seriously affects the price for the user of the final product.

To dismantle the electric motor With a modern washing machine you need to remove the back (typical of Indesit, Zanussi, Ariston) or front (typical of Samsung, Bosch, LG) panel. If you only need to unscrew the bolts on the back wall, then from the front you will have to remove the control panel, base and top cover. The engine will be located at the bottom of the machine. To dismantle it, you need to remove the drive belt and disconnect the grounding and power wires. Next, you need to unscrew the motor mounts and remove the device by picking it up with a thin object. If all the screws are unscrewed, then you can use a little force, since the fasteners often stick.

Connection rules

When the type of electric motor installed on the old washing machine has been determined, you can begin connecting.

Advice! If you plan to use a powerful modern motor, you should remember the following points: capacitors are not needed for their operation, and a starting winding is also not required.

Before connecting a device with more than 3 pins to the network, you need to understand colors of wires, coming out of the transfer case:

• often white winding means that these wires belong to the tachogenerator, they will not be useful in the future;
• brown and red connected to the stator winding and rotor;
• gray and green wires are classified as graphite brushes.

Although this recommendation applies to most models, copies are produced that where colors may vary. To be sure of your choice, you need to ring all pairs using a tester and a multimeter. Those that go to the tachogenerator have a resistance of 60-70 Ohms.

Important! After connecting all the wires of a modern 6-pin engine, you can check the functionality of the device by connecting it to a car battery. When voltage is applied through the starting relay, it will immediately (without acceleration) begin to rotate. If the test has confirmed the effectiveness of the circuit, you can connect the motor to a 220-volt network, having first firmly secured the motor.

IN old engines 5 wires - one goes to ground. The rest can be easily divided into pairs by simply ringing them. Now it is important to determine which pair relates to the start, and which one is working? Usually the resistance is higher at the starters, and it is they that need to be connected via a capacitor to the “SB” button. To prevent the engine from burning out, the button must be without a lock; for this purpose, you can use a doorbell. Sometimes such motors have three output wires, which means that the two windings were connected at the factory.

For starting the electric motor you need to press the button and hold it for 1-2 seconds, and after spinning up the engine, you should stop supplying voltage. When the motor can start running without load, it means that it will start without a capacitor. If you do not use a starting winding in an old motor, you can change the direction of rotation.

New electric motors Washing machines are produced with at least 5 terminals, but all of them are not needed to start. So, you can safely remove three wires: two going to the tachogenerator, and one connected to the thermal protection. The latter includes contact with “zero” resistance.

Further connection diagram electric motor involves supplying voltage to the winding wire, a pair of which should be connected to the first brush. In this case, the second brush is mated with the remaining pair of 220-volt wire. The engine is now ready to start. And to change the direction of rotation you need to change the connections with the brushes.

Speed ​​controller

To adjust the speed you should use a dimmer(usually it is used to change the brightness of lighting). However, it is important to understand that the power of the regulator must exceed the power of the electric motor itself. The easiest way is to choose the right device. But if you have enough skills and knowledge of electronics, you can try to get a triac with a radiator from a washing machine with a speed controller. They need to be soldered into the existing dimmer.

Possible connection problems and their elimination

If all wires are connected correctly, but The washing machine motor turns off after a few minutes of starting, a possible cause may be overheating. To identify a heating part, you need to run the engine for one minute. During this time, only the problem area will have time to heat up. This way you can understand that the bearing assembly, stator or other part has failed. In this case, it is not necessary to change the bearings; perhaps they are simply clogged, or there is not enough lubrication. If the cause of the motor shutdown is the capacitor, then it should be replaced with a device with a lower capacity.

When all parts have been replaced, you need to run the engine for 5 minutes and check its heating. Then the procedure should be repeated two more times, and only after this can you be sure that the electric motor is working.

Important! Sometimes an induction motor can run too slowly. One of the reasons is a short or break in the winding. In any case, such a motor is not suitable for further use.

Having understood the intricacies of connecting the motor from an old washing machine, you can make your life easier and save your budget by making several universal tools. If all faults in the engine are corrected in a timely manner, it will last for several more years. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when working with electricity.

FEDERAL AGENCY FOR EDUCATION GOU VPO

Ufa State Academy of Service Economics

Department of MABN

COURSE WORK

in the discipline "Diagnostics of infantry fighting vehicles"

on the topic : Washing machine diagnostics
automatic type

SMA “Vyatka-Avtomat”.

Completed: Art. gr. MZ-6

*****@***ru

Checked: Associate Professor, Ph.D.

*****@***ru

Ufa-2006

1) Description of the automatic washing machine “Vyatka-

Automatic"…….……………………………………………………………3

2) Development of a structural and functional diagram of a washing machine .....13

3) Development of a functional model for two faults…………..15

4) Development of a fault finding matrix for the first fault...17

5) Development of a troubleshooting algorithm for the second fault

half-splitting method…………………………………….....19

6) Development of a troubleshooting algorithm

washing machine………………………………………………………21

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image003_27.jpg" alt="Construction" width="443" height="370">!}

Fig.1. Design of the Vyatka-Avtomat washing machine

	2 – support
3 – tank suspension spring	4 – hose
5 – solenoid valve	6 – washing tank
	8 – inlet hose
9 – thermostat sensor	10 – electric heater
11 – electric motor	12 – drain hose
13 – level sensor tube
15 – capacitor	16 – shock absorber spring
17 – friction disc	18 – electric pump
19 – filter	20 – drainage tube
21 – level sensor	22 – counterweight
23 – command apparatus	24 – indicator lamp
25 – program switch	26 – command device handle
27 – front wall of the case	28 – machine body
29 – hatch cover	30 – housing cover
31 – dispenser box	32 – inlet hose
33 – solenoid valve

The machine operates from a cold and hot water supply network and is designed for washing, rinsing and spinning items made from all types of fabrics. It has front loading of laundry. The machine provides a choice of washing modes with a set of specific programs using low-foaming synthetic detergents. Programs are recruiting

Employees" href="/text/category/sluzhashie/" rel="bookmark">server for selecting the economical mode of washing and spinning; to the right of the switch there is a command device 23 and a neon lamp 24, signaling the operation of the electric motor. The control unit is covered with a plastic panel, on which the handles 26 of the command apparatus and the switch 25 are displayed; here (on the left) there is a detergent dispenser drawer 31 and a panel with program inscriptions located under the handle of the dispenser drawer.

Washing tank 6 is made of carbon steel followed by hot enameling. The upper part of the washing tank is suspended from the machine body on two cylindrical springs 3. The springs are attached to the upper part of the body through supports 2. Metal springs are welded to the lower part of the washing tank on both sides: counterweights 22 made of concrete are mounted on the washing tank. A tubular electric heating and temperature sensor 9 are built inside the washing tank. A perforated washing drum with three ribs is installed in the washing tank. The axis of the washing drum is extended outside the latter through seals in a cast support attached to the rear wall of the washing tub. A pulley 7 is placed on the axle, connected by a V-belt to a pulley on the electric motor shaft. In the front wall of the washing tub there is a loading hole connected to the loading hatch using

fixed rubber cuff of special profile. This part of the machine contains a drain electric pump 18 and a removable filter 19, the cover of which is located on the lower part of the front panel of the housing. The machine is equipped with a removable water inlet hose 8 and a drain hose 12. The presence of a rectangular hole in the rear of the machine that can be closed with a lid and the ability to remove the top cover provide convenient access to the structural elements and instruments of the machine, which is of great importance when repairing it.

Level sensor-relay RU-3SM

The RU-3SM level sensor-relay is used to control the specified level of water filling into the washing machine tank. The level sensor-relay is set to operate at pressure, Pa: 1765 – when the water level rises; 588 – when the water level drops. The operating range is when the level increases from 755 to 2450 Pa, the dead zone is at least 490 Pa. The electrical load on the contacts of the level relay switching device is no more than 16 A at a voltage of no more than 250 V AC, a frequency of 50 Hz and a power factor of no less than 0.8.

All main parts of the level switch are fixed to the housing (Fig. 2). A membrane is placed between housing 2 and the cover, which serves as a sensitive element and divides the level switch into two cavities. One cavity is sealed and is connected through fitting 3 to a controlled water level. The second cavity houses switches. Connected to the membrane is a rigid center with pushers, which, through stops 7, transmit force to the switching flat springs and to the adjustment springs 9. On the opposite side, the springs 9 rest against the adjusting screws 8. Instant transfer of contacts is carried out due to tilting springs.

Rice. 2 Schematic diagram of a level relay.

1 - rivet, 2 - body, 3 - fitting, 4 - membrane, 5 - cover, 6 - center with pushers, 7 - stop, 8 - adjusting screw, 9 - spring

The fixed contacts are attached to the body with 2 rivets 1. Adjustment of the response and dead zone, as well as the gaps between the contacts, is carried out with special screws. Adjustment to required levels

actuation is carried out by changing the compression of the adjustment spring with screws 8.

An additional protective contact is built into the level switch on the switching plates. The cover 5 of the membrane 4 is attached to the body 2 by rolling the edges of the cover onto the shoulder of the body. To eliminate the influence of pulsations of a controlled level on the response, a calibrated hole is made in fitting 3 for air throttling.

The operating principle of a water level switch (also called a pressure switch) is based on converting the pressure created by a column of liquid and acting on a membrane into the movement of movable contacts and switching of the contact devices of the level switch. When the pressure increases and the upper set value of the water level is reached, the membrane switches contacts through pushers. When the pressure decreases by the value of the dead zone, the contacts switch back. Instant transfer of contacts is carried out due to switching flat springs.

Depending on the design, the relay can be configured to several levels. In Fig. Figure 3 shows three states of the so-called two-level relay.

Rice. 3 Schematic diagram of a level relay.

a) both contacts (A and B) are open;

b) level I: contact A is closed, contact B is open;

c) level I: contacts A and B are closed.

When switching currents up to 16 A and voltage 220 V, it is possible to weld the contacts at the time of draining the water. In this case, to prevent the heating element from burning out, an additional contact is built into the level relay, which switches a current of 0.1 A at a voltage of 220 V and closes reliably when water is drained from the tank below a given level point. Through a protective contact, the power circuit of the electric valve is turned on to open the emergency water supply to the washing machine tank,

Reverse" href="/text/category/revers/" rel="bookmark">reversible).

The working cams control the washing machine's electric motor, drain pump, inlet solenoid valve and heating element. Auxiliary cams control changes in the direction of rotation of the drum during washing, as well as special washing and spinning programs (delicate modes).

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image012_10.gif" width="238" height="199">

Rice. 4 Cam-type command device:

1 - cams, 2 - electric motor, 3 - contacts, 4 - program dial, 5 - program selection handle

A group of working (main) cams is driven by an electric motor of the command device. The cams make discrete turns (steps), with a full 360° rotation of the cam typically taking 60 steps. Depending on the design of the control device, the time for a full revolution can be 90, 120 or even 300 minutes.

The operating cam is designed in such a way that the contact controlled by it can be in two or three positions. The two positions correspond to "closed" or "open" states. The following states correspond to three positions:

Closing the contact between the common input and output A;

Opening the circuit;

Closing the contact between the common input and output B.

The time the contacts remain in one position or another is determined by the profile of the cam. A graph reflecting the state of contacts at each step of program execution is called a cyclogram of the command device (Fig. 5).

To perform some special operations, the command device can be equipped with a system for stopping the advancement of the cams. This blockage may remain until the washing machine performs certain functions. The washing program continues after these functions have been completed.

For example, the Thermostop device is used to prevent the movement of the cams of the control device until the water in the tank reaches the desired temperature. It blocks the working cams in relation to the main axis of the command device, leaving only the auxiliary cams in operation.

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Rice. 5 States of contacts at various steps of program execution (cyclogram of the command device)

Another locking operation - "Hydro stop" (sometimes also called "Stop after rinse" or "Stop before spin") consists of stopping the machine with laundry and a partially filled tank with water after a gentle rinse when washing delicate fabrics. To do this, the power supply to the electric motor of the control device is interrupted. The machine's operation is suspended until the user manually moves the control unit one step.

The main switch of the machine can also be built into the command apparatus; in this case, it can be turned on and off using the program selection handle, moving it along the axis of the command device (pushing it towards you or retracting it). The main contacts L and N of the washing machine power circuit are affected by a disk combined with a handle (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6 Closing the contacts of the main switch of the washing machine when the program selection handle is pulled out

Temperature regulators (thermostats)

Bimetallic regulators are widely used as thermostats (temperature switches). The operating principle of the thermostat is based on the temperature deformation of metals. Two plates made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion, such as steel and copper, acquire different lengths when heated. Being fastened along its entire length, such a bimetallic strip bends towards the metal with a lower coefficient of thermal expansion (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7 Heating behavior of strips of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion: bimetallic strip bonded along its entire length

The view of the bimetallic thermostat is shown in Fig. 8, and the schematic diagram of its operation is in Fig. 9. Using a sealing sleeve, the thermostat is built into the washing machine tank. A change in the temperature of the washing solution leads to a change in the deflection of the sensitive element - bimetallic plate 2. When the water in the tank is heated, the deflection of the bimetallic plate decreases, and when the relay operating temperature is reached, the flat spring instantly changes position to the opposite (Fig. 9) and opens contacts 4. When cooled the reverse process of contact closure occurs.

The thermostat can be normally open (when heated, the contacts of the electrical circuit close) and normally closed (when heated, the circuit breaks). The normally closed type is typical for thermostats for protective or restrictive purposes.

Rice. 8 General view of the bimetallic thermostat:

1 - sensor; 2 - body

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Rice. 9 Schematic diagram of the operation of a bimetallic thermostat:

1-sensor; 2-bimetallic plate; 3-body; 4 - contact system

Solenoid valve

The solenoid valve is designed to open the water supply to the washing machine when the tank is filling and interrupt the water supply to the tank at the required time. The appearance of the solenoid valve is shown in Fig. 10, and its diagram is in Fig. 11. The normal position of the solenoid valve is closed. When the valve is turned on, under the influence of the magnetic field of the electromagnet coil 1, the core 3 is drawn into it. At this moment, the passage hole of the valve opens, and the supply of water to the washing tank begins. After filling the required amount of water, the electrical circuit of the solenoid valve opens, the electromagnet core is lowered under the action of the spring force, blocking the passage hole.

Rice. 10 Appearance of the solenoid valve

Rice. 11 Solenoid valve diagram:

a) - valve closed: b) - valve open: 1 - electromagnet; 2 - spiral spring; 3 - electromagnet core; 4 - valve membrane; 5 - through hole; 6 - equalization hole

Rice. 12: Electrical circuit diagram of the Vyatka-Avtomat washing machine.

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2) Noise suppression filter

4) Valve device 1

5) Valve device 2

6) Signal lamp for electric motor operation

8) Detergent bin 1

9) Detergent hopper 2

10) Cold water supply pipe

11) Microswitch

12) Manhole cover

13) Washing machine drum

14) Washing machine drum pulley

15) Drive belt

16) Electric motor pulley

17) electric motor DASM-4

18) Motor starting capacitor

19) Water level sensor RU-3SM

21) Command apparatus

22) Temperature sensors (400C, 600C, 890C)

23) Electrothermal relay (RK-1-3)

24) heating element (thermal electric heater)

25) Pump filter

27) Drain pipe

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image029_5.gif" width="492" height="242 src=">

1) Washing machine power cord

2) Noise filter

3) Washing machine switch

4) Command apparatus

5) Temperature sensors (400C, 600C, 890C)

6) TEN (thermal electric heater)

7) Microswitch

8) Economy mode switch

9) Micro electric motor of the control device

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image031_0.jpg" width="619" height="339 src=">

1) Economy mode switch

2) Micro electric motor of the control device

3) Command apparatus

4) Electrothermal relay (RK-1-3)

5) Motor starting capacitor

6) electric motor DASM-4

7) Electric motor pulley

8) Drive belt

9) Washing machine drum pulley

10) Washing machine drum

11) Microswitch

12) Manhole cover

13) Washing machine switch

14) Noise filter

15) Washing machine power cord

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image033_3.gif" width="492" height="242 src=">

Z 1=0 – The washing machine power cord does not conduct current

Z 2=0 – Noise suppression filter is faulty

Z 3=0 – The washing machine switch does not turn off

Z 4=0 – The command device does not work

Z 5=0 – Temperature sensors (400С, 600С, 890С) are overheated

Z 6=0 – heating element (thermal electric heater) burned out

Z 7=0 – Microswitch is faulty

Z 8=0 – Economy washing mode switch is faulty

Z 9=0 – The micro-electric motor of the command device is out of order

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image031_0.jpg" width="619" height="339 src=">

https://pandia.ru/text/78/040/images/image039_2.gif" width="701" height="1072 src="> Development atroubleshooting algorithm

washing machine for malfunction "The washing machine does not spin clothes."

A neighbor in the building placed an automatic washing machine on the landing for further disposal, as a repairman told him, the motor was damaged. Not one Samodelkin, never in his life, will pass by a discarded unit without picking it up for spare parts or at least looking inside at the contents. I have the same problem, so I decided to spare my neighbor the hard physical work of taking the unit to the trash and took it to my village for spare parts.

In the photo: One of the most useful elements of the inside of a washing machine.

Everything was disassembled into useful gadgets and it was time to check the condition of the motor.

Paragraph 1. Checking the motor.

To check the motor and upgrade the lighting dimmer, we need tools.
*Device (tester)
*Electrician's side cutters
*Dimmer
*Soldering iron

Inside there was this brushed universal motor MCA 52\64 -148\KT11 390W. 13000 RPM.

In the picture we see a seven-pin large connector, on the left there are all single-color blue wires (to make it more difficult for the average person to understand) and one yellow-green (grounding), on the right there are wires going directly into the motor, if you look from the top, there are two red ones (to the stroke sensor ), blue to brush 1, purple to the other brush 2, black (midpoint of the motor windings), orange (two stator windings).

Let's strip all the outgoing blue wires to test them with the device.

Let's disconnect the connector and use a tester to call which of the blue wires goes to which motor wire, so as not to forget, you need to write it down and sketch it.

To easily start the motor, we only need two orange, blue and purple wires; the rest can be bitten off or insulated for future homemade products.

According to this diagram, you need to connect the motor.

You can check the operation of the motor, everything works (as in most cases it happens), only it is advisable to replace the bearings.

This is how repair specialists carry out diagnostics; the price of such a new motor is 6,000 rubles + installation work.

Point 2. Reverse.

This type of motor can be reversed, which is what the washing machine does during washing; to do this, you need to change the connection of the brush from one winding to another, only do this after the motor has completely stopped and is de-energized.

Scheme. Reverse using a toggle switch.

The toggle switch itself.

Point 3. Speed ​​control with light dimmer.

You can also regulate the speed by reducing or increasing the current, for example, using a wire rheostat of the required power or using a triac with a PWM controller.

As the simplest and most affordable, this is a Dimmer for lighting (photo below), but before the first connection you need to look at what maximum current the regulator is designed for, we need a tenfold overlap of the rated power of the motor, because the starting current of our motor jumps from 8-10A and higher, even without load.

Cheapest Dimmer.

If the Dimmer turns out to be 3A like mine, then it can be modified by finding the required triac directly on the control board of the washing machine itself, where all the parameters are precisely calculated for this motor.

To do this, we will trace the path from the place where the motor terminal is connected to the board and along the widest tracks, one of which will definitely fit one of the legs of the part we need (in my case, it is a BTB16 triac with three legs).

We disconnect the radiator mount and solder the part, being careful not to overheat.

We solder the resulting triac together with the radiator to replace the old part in the regulator, now you can safely connect a load of 10 A and even up to 16 A at the time of start-up.

We connect the regulator (Dimmer) to the break of one power wire of the motor, plug it into the network and turn the regulator knob, the motor should start rotating, and the speed should correspond to the position of the regulator knob.

If, when connected to the network, the motor is in any of the positions of the regulator or is constantly running without changing speed, then the part (triac) was broken (burned out), provided that the regulator itself was initially in good working order.

Now we need to make a new case for Dimmer, the old one has become too small for it. But that is another story.

Rice. 1. Design of the Mini-Vyatka washing machine

a - design: 1 - pallet; 2, 6,12, 16 - screws; 3 - cam; 4 - base; 5 - walls; 7, 9 - clamps; 8,10 - capacitors; 11 - drive cover; 13, 21, 33 - nuts, 14 - handle; 15 - plug; 17 - time relay; 18 - tank cover; 19 - tank; 20 - stopper; 22 - activator bearing; 23, 24, 30, 31 - washers; 25 - activator; 26 - terminal block; 27 - bracket; 28 - electric motor; 29 - hose; 32 - activator pulley; 34 - belt drive; 35 - retaining ring; 36 - engine pulley; 37 - bolt

The Mini-Vyatka SM-1.5 washing machine consists of a washing tank 19 (Fig. 1), an electric drive, a tank lid 18, an activator 25 and a connecting cord. The washing tub has a recess in the bottom for installing the activator and protrusions on the inner wall indicating the maximum and minimum water levels for washing and rinsing. The activator is driven by an electric motor through a belt drive 34. The washing machine drive consists of an electric motor 28, a time relay 17 and capacitors 8 and 10. The activator drive is started and stopped using a time relay, the handle 14 of which is located on the control panel. The washing time is controlled by a time relay from 0 to 6 min. Operating cycle: 50 s - rotation in one direction, 10 s - break, 50 s - rotation in the other direction, 10 s - break, etc. At the bottom of the machine there is a drain pipe with a drain hose 29.

C1, C2 - capacitors, K - cyclic time relay RVTs-6-50; R - resistor; M - electric motor AVE-071-4C

Disassembling the Mini-Vyatka washing machine

Disassembling the car. Remove plug 15 (see Fig. 1), unscrew screw 16 and remove handle 14. Unscrew nut 13, remove drive cover 11, unscrew screw 2 securing cam 3 and remove wall 5 with electrical equipment. Turn the machine over, unscrew the screws and remove tray 1. Reassemble the machine in the reverse order. It should be taken into account that the permissible gap between tank 19 and wall 5 is no more than 0.5 mm. Adjustment of the gap is ensured by fixing cam 3 with screw 2.

Repair and replacement of parts in the Mini-Vyatka washing machine

Replacing the activator bearing. Loosen the electric motor mounting bolts. Remove the belt 34 from the pulley 32. Unscrew the nut 21 securing the pulley, knock out the stopper 20, remove the activator 25, remove the washers 23 and 24, unscrew the nut 33 and remove the bearing 22. Install the bearing in the reverse order. The permissible protrusion of the activator surface above the plane of the bottom of the tank should be no more than 2 mm. The installation of the activator is regulated by washer 23 between the activator and washer 24. The permissible axial displacement of the activator is no more than ±0.5 mm. The permissible displacement of the groove of the activator pulley 32 relative to the groove of the electric motor pulley 36 is no more than 1 mm. If the displacement is large, adjust the position of the grooves by installing washers 23 and 24. Radial displacement of the pulley on the activator axis is not allowed.

Replacing the electric motor. Loosen the bolts 37 securing the electric motor, remove the belt, remove the retaining ring 35. Using a puller, remove the pulley from the electric motor shaft. Disconnect the electrical wires from terminals 26. Remove the electric motor. Install the new engine in reverse order.

Replacing the time relay. Disconnect the electrical wires. Unscrew screws 12 securing the relay and remove the relay. Install the new relay in reverse order.

Replacing capacitors. Disconnect the electrical wires. Unscrew the screw b securing the bracket 27 and remove the bracket from the grooves in the wall. Unscrew the screws of the fastening clamps 7 and 9 to the bracket. Remove the capacitors. Install new capacitors.

Belt replacement. Loosen bolts 37 securing the electric motor to the base. Remove the belt and install a new one. The tension of the belt should be such that it ensures a deflection of its branch by 3...4 mm under the influence of a force of 400 gf.