How to choose an entrance door to a private house. How to install a metal entrance door yourself? How to install a street door

A key element of the security of our apartments and houses are entrance doors. In addition, they are the first to be seen by others. It is important that the entrance doors meet such characteristics and requirements as: reliability, strength, aesthetic appearance, convenience, thermal insulation and sound insulation. And all these characteristics depend not only on the quality and type of the door leaf and door frame, but also on correct installation. No matter how good the door is, inept installation can completely destroy all its good aspects. Below we will look at detailed instructions on how to install a door with your own hands efficiently and reliably. At the same time, we will try to consider as widely as possible the options for installing various designs of entrance doors.

Preparation for work, necessary tools

When choosing a door, you should carefully take measurements. To order a door, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the doorway. The difficulty lies in the presence of a door frame (frame) and a thick layer of mortar around the entire perimeter. Determining the actual size is sometimes a problem, because there is no clear boundary of the end of the opening. As a result, it is taken into account that nothing should remain in the lower part down to the base of the floor. If there are thresholds or the boat is very raised, then at the time of dismantling all this will be removed. The upper part of the opening never widens, that is, does not rise. The sides can be expanded slightly if necessary, but the width of the support beam, which marks the top edge of the opening, should be taken into account. As a result, the door should be 20-25 mm narrower on each side. In other words, the door frame of the new door should be 40-50 mm less than the total width of the opening and the same amount lower.

To carry out work on installing the front door you will need the following tools:

1. a hammer drill or impact drill with a drill and a spatula;
2. level;
3. roulette;
4. hammer and sledgehammer;
5. angle grinder (grinder);
6. wooden board, ax and saw for forming pegs.

The choice of necessary materials differs depending on what will be used to fill the gap between the door frame and the walls. This can be polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

To secure the front door, anchors or metal rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm are also required.

Video: nuances of installing the front door

Work order

Whatever the door design or material, the installation process will be similar, with only a few nuances in each individual case. If the new door is separated from the main frame, it should be removed before installation and set aside while the frame is secured. It is advisable to cover the entire perimeter of the frame and door with masking tape if there is no protective film on it.

If so, then before installation it is necessary to fill the inside of the box with cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Before the actual installation, the filling will have time to set or dry and the excess can be removed.

Typical structure and configuration of an entrance door

Preparing the opening

When dismantling an old door, you should not be particularly careful; it is only important not to damage the walls, especially if they are made of foam concrete or it is an old brick building. The door leaf is removed from the hinges or the hinges are unscrewed from the hinges. Using a grinder or saw, several cuts are made around the perimeter of the door frame and, using a crowbar, it is removed from the opening.

Using a hammer drill, the opening is cleared of excess mortar and plaster around the entire perimeter. Particular attention should be paid to the bottom of the opening. As a result, the door must be mounted flush with the floors in the hallway or corridor, and this parameter depends on whether the screed will still form or not. Moreover, in the vacated opening under the old door there may be a wooden beam or brickwork that has become unusable over time. All this must be cleaned and removed, and instead, if necessary, form a base of bricks or the same wooden beam of the required height.

Basic installation step

From this stage, the help of a second person will be necessary, especially if an iron door is being installed. You need to place the frame from the new front door in the opening and use a level to check whether it can be installed strictly vertically. It should be checked in all planes, preferably in several places. For example, place a level in a vertical rack from the inner end and on one of the adjacent sides, and place the level on the lower partition. As a result, the corresponding level indicators must show a strict level match. If any part of the doorway interferes with leveling, then it is necessary to scrape off the protrusion.

If everything is normal, then the position of the box is fixed with wooden pegs. For this purpose, it is better to use two pads per place. One lining is made with an even thickness 5 mm less than the gap, and the second is in the form of a wedge, while the second part is much longer than the first and is made with a small bevel angle. This makes it easier to adjust the box to level.

Advice: It is better to abandon the old-fashioned method and not fix the door with nails first. In this case, there is a very high probability that the door frame will move.

Once the door is clearly level, you can begin securing it. There are several different options you can use for this. It all depends on the design of the door and a little on the material from which it is made. There should be three attachment points on the sides and two on the top and bottom. That's the minimum.

Initially, the side on which the hinges for the door are located is fixed, starting from the top point. After each fastening, it is better to check with a level that the installation is correct. After this part is secured, you can hang the door leaf and adjust the position of the door frame, and also check that the frame is not deformed and there are no excessive tensions.

After this, you can remove the door leaf again and begin securing the other side and both vertical jumpers of the door frame. Again, adjusting your actions, if necessary, maintaining the level in both planes.

So, ways to fasten the door frame:

• Anchor or pin fastening to the eyes. This fastening is most often found on doors of any type. For metal ones, they are an integral part of the box design. Wooden and plastic doors are most often attached with screws.

A hole 10-15 cm deep is made through the hole in the eye using a hammer drill with a drill. An anchor bolt or a pre-prepared pin is inserted into the hole. The pin is a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm, one edge of which is slightly flattened with a hammer to form a head, and the second is sharpened. The fastener is driven all the way into the hole. The anchor bolt is tightened using a socket wrench. If a pin is used, it is welded to the eye.

• Anchor or pin fastening through the door frame. Actually, everything is repeated, as in the first option, only the holes for fastenings are made directly at the end of the door frame.

At a wooden door, it is also necessary to prudently drill a recess with a large drill, where the head of the anchor bolt or the flattened edge of the pin will hide.

• Grip type fastening. This type of fastening is suitable for a metal door. In this case, the door frame is held by the outer edge to the doorway, and a hook is welded from the inside, which holds to the inside of the wall. This option is suitable for apartments and houses with monolithic walls and allows you to install an entrance door without drilling or drilling holes in the walls.

Completing the installation

When the door frame is secured, the door leaf is hung and its operation is finally checked. To do this, the door opens first 45 degrees, and then 90. In these positions, it should not move spontaneously. There should be no play when closed. If everything is fine, then it’s time to start sealing the gap between the door frame and the wall. Filling with foam will speed up and facilitate this process. But the strength of the polyurethane foam may not be enough, and this will affect the burglary resistance of the entire structure. It is best to use cement mortar with the addition of alabaster. The entire gap is tightly filled with the solution. This will be much more effective with your hands than with a trowel or spatula. The solution for filling the space is prepared so that it does not float. It is advisable to bring it to the state of a loose solution, similar to a curd mass.

The operation of the locks must be checked and, if necessary, the mating parts located on the door frame are adjusted if this option is present in the design. A rubber sealing tape is carefully glued around the perimeter of the door.

Every other day, you can remove the protective film and previously applied masking tape. All that remains is to hang the platbands on the outside of the doorway if necessary. They are screwed onto a wooden door using self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. For reliability and safety, it is better to recess the heads of the screws into the wood of the trim and cover them with wood putty.

In the case of a metal door, the platbands are reinforced with rivets or bolts.

In fact, this is where the process of installing the front door ends. After this, it is necessary to build slopes with the help of which to hide the door fastening points and give a normal aesthetic appearance to the inside of the doorway.

Video instructions for installing a metal door

In this article we will talk about how to install the front door yourself correctly: we will reveal the features and subtleties of this process.

The front door is primarily the protector of your home. Therefore, it is worth approaching its installation in good faith and carefully studying this article. If you don’t want to waste your time on this undertaking and have an extra couple of thousand rubles, then you can hire a specialist.

Before installing the entrance doors, you need to dismantle the existing “protector”. To do this, first remove the fabric from the loops.

With detachable hinges, this is done simply: open the door wider and, using a pry bar or crowbar, lift it until it comes off. If the hinges are one-piece, then there should be no problems here either: they can be separated using a simple screwdriver. That is, they unscrew.

There are 2 options possible:

• Wooden box. In this case, if possible, first unscrew the fastening screws and pull out all the nails from the vertical bars. After this, using a pry bar or a large nail puller, we tear out all the parts of the box from the opening.

You should know! To make it easier to dismantle a wooden door frame, you can make cuts on its side parts. This will speed up the work.

• Box. Here you will have to tinker a little. Especially if it was attached by welding. To solve the problem, you will need a grinder with a metal disc. Do not forget about safety glasses or a mask!

Preparing the doorway

After dismantling, you should prepare the doorway for installing a new door.

We perform the following actions:

• Getting rid of the remaining protruding parts: nails, screws, pieces of plaster and insulating materials.
• We measure the opening and door block. If necessary, we enlarge the opening: we use a sledgehammer or a cutting machine with a diamond blade.

You should know! The size of the opening should be at least 2 cm larger than the size of the box, maximum 2.5 cm.

• Narrowing of the opening, as a rule, is rarely done. But if there is such a need, then this should be done using a cement-sand mixture of grade M-300. A metal corner can be used as formwork.

Procedure

Material and tools

After you have decided which entrance door to install, purchased (see) and delivered it, you can begin installation.

First, let's prepare the tool:

1. Hammer drill (impact drill) with a 15 mm drill. The working length of the drill must be at least 180 mm.
2. Construction level with three eyes.
3. Hammer.
4. Tape measure (at least 3 meters long).
5. Screwdriver.
6. 17mm socket wrench. Head length - at least 4.5 cm.

The installation of wooden entrance doors is carried out everywhere due to aesthetics and affordability, but there are installation features. First of all, you need to purchase the necessary tools and consumables (sealant, nails, screws, additional elements). Then you should carefully dismantle the old block; here you cannot do without fittings for a wooden entrance door.

To figure out how to properly install a wooden door, you first need to understand that products come in different designs (paneled from solid wood, frame panels, glued, on a metal base), shape and size (rectangular, arched, individual), as well as type (street for a private household or for the landing of an apartment building).

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The wooden panel can be single, one-and-a-half, or double. Processing technology affects the complexity of assembly, installation and their specifics.

The elements of wooden doors are:

• canvas (size matching the size of the opening);
• hinged device for mobility (opening and closing);
• latches when closing;
• fittings (hinges, handles and locks, peephole, closer, stop, armor plate, counter);
• decorative components (platband, core).

All this can be purchased individually or as a set in disassembled or almost assembled condition.

List of required tools

Set of tools for installing wooden entrance doors:

1. roulette;
2. construction level (preferably laser);
3. perforator;
4. Bulgarian;
5. sledgehammer with hammer;
6. drill;
7. anchor;
8. material for sealing the opening (foam or cement mortar).

Installation instructions

A wooden door block is a frame and a leaf connected by a system of canopies. Installing a wooden entrance door with your own hands involves preparing these parts and installing them.

But at the very beginning it is important to pay attention to the floor level. A construction wooden level helps measure the height of the stand boxes. It is necessary to make markings for the mounting holes.

Allowable level correlation is 3 mm.

Preparing the wood means installing the lock and handle and determining the location for the hinge pieces. The latter is best done with the finished box and fitting it into the opening. The wooden box is assembled indicating the joining points. Then - direct installation:

• the box is fixed to the opening with wooden wedges;
• if the walls and ceilings are concrete, the diameter of the drill must match the thickness of the dowels;
• Self-tapping screws are installed into the dowels without tightening;
• attach loops and circle them (parts of the loops are located at a distance of 20 cm from the edges of the end of the wooden panel);
• the end, as well as the places for the hinges, are varnished;
• attaching hinges to the canvas;
• the block is inserted into the opening and the hinges are finally fixed, and the screws are tightened.

The technology for installing a wooden door is simple for a knowledgeable person. The only difficulty is the physical effort at the last stage (lifting the product and attaching it to the grooves in the doorway). But after installation, the following work must be done:

1. seal the gaps between parts of the system with sealant;
2. install platbands, check the operation of locks;
3. plaster the distance between the door and the main part of the house structure so that they have a more aesthetic appearance.

The finishing of the opening is carried out not only for beauty, but also for better fixation of the wooden door to the base of the house.

Preparing the opening

Useful tips for assembly and installation begin with removing old trim and cleaning the gaps between the door and the opening, and removing the door leaf. To do this, you need to cut out two transverse holes from top to bottom. Then the vertical parts of the old door frame are removed. You can use a crowbar if you lack your own strength. To ensure that the top beam does not interfere with the installation of the product, it is removed in the same way.

Assembling the box

A wooden box consists of three or four profile bars arranged in a frame. 2 vertical beams are called racks. Their height is similar to the door leaf. The short beams are called the upper lintel and threshold.

Stages of working on a wooden box:

• the profile beam is cut to the required parameters;
• the protrusions on the upper and lower rack are removed;
• all parts are fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts;
• the outer and inner sides are determined;
• Grooves for hinges are cut on the inside.

Incorrect assembly of the lower part of the box, as well as all its other corners, can result in the wood splitting when screwing in the screws, if you do not first drill several holes in the end of the rack. The diameter of the drill bit of a screwdriver or drill does not exceed 3 mm. And the screws themselves must be screwed in with a screwdriver in all corners.

To complete the process of assembling the frame, you should try on the existing door leaf. The gaps between it and the racks should not exceed 2 mm.

Hanging the fabric on hinges

To install, you need to know how to place the hinges and secure them. The process of connecting the door leaf to the frame is important. Installation can be of the following types:

1. invoice;
2. mortise;
3. screw-in

The simplest first option is to attach the leaf on top of the door block. The mortise type is characterized by the presence of recesses, due to which they merge with the surface. The screw-in type uses special pins for screwing into wood.

Any type has two parts, which are attached either to the frame or to the door leaf. To connect the loops, they are placed one on top of the other. The weight of the wood piece can be a challenge, but the principle is simple.

Filling cracks with foam

Gaps can appear both between the leaf and the door frame, and between the door block itself and the structure of the house (walls, ceiling, floor). The first ones are blown with foam. But, in order to prevent the hardening foam from creating holes and gaps due to pressure and falling to the bottom, it is advisable to initially place cardboard in the cracks. The sealant adheres better to a wet surface, so the opening should be slightly moistened with water. Blow out the gaps in the closed position. It is advisable not to touch the wooden structure for 10-12 hours. The remaining foam is carefully cut off with a construction knife under a ruler or spatula.

Installation in utility room

If you already have experience in installing an entrance door in a house, then you can use the same principle to install a wooden door block in the utility rooms. The difference lies in the filigree of finishing work on the installation of the technical door. You don't need both sides of the lock - just the outer side is enough.

Installation procedure for sliding structures

Sliding doors are popular due to their functionality, space saving and visual appeal. The process of installing them depends on the type of fastening, which can be:

• non-threshold - the doors are held on the upper suspension;
• threshold - sometimes the system is mounted on the floor;
• universal - with top and bottom fastening.

The scheme of working with sliding models is practically the same at the initial stage: dismantling the old door, preparing the opening, taking measurements in the places where the door leaf will be attached, installing the frame.

Then they move to the top level of the system. To do this, apply a wooden sheet and mark its upper level. The beam is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws - this is the place for the guide rails. Next, the lower guide rail is loosely attached to the beam. The free movement of the product is checked and, if necessary, the self-tapping screw is screwed in more firmly.

Then the bolts are screwed into the carriages with rollers and placed on the rail. Travel limiters are attached.

If lower fixation is also planned, a groove of at least 18 mm in depth is cut. A wooden panel with carriages is fixed, and the gap between the door and the wall is adjusted. It should not exceed 5 mm.

It is almost impossible to carry out installation on your own. At least 2 people will be needed.

Additional elements when installing a second door

The installation of a second wooden entrance door is carried out for noise and sound insulation and heat conservation. The best way to cope with this is with insulation made from dermantine or felt. The presence of an additional lock and handle, designed in harmony with the style of the hallway, increases reliability and emphasizes the taste of the home owners.

Installing an entrance door to an apartment is a task that many people face when planning to replace it. There are two solutions: pay for the installation of doors in the same store or company where you purchase them, or install new doors yourself.

This article is a specific example of installing an entrance door with your own hands, showing that if you have a couple of hours of free time, desire, and a minimum of tools, this task is within the capabilities of many..

During the renovation of the corridor, they decided to install a new entrance door. We decided to buy it not ready-made in the store, but to order it according to the dimensions of the opening. After reading advertisements and reviews, we chose the company. A representative arrived, took measurements, and two weeks later a new insulated metal door was delivered. To save money, we decided to install the front door ourselves.

Tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool that will be useful in the future.

We will need:

• mount;
• perforator;
• drill with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 150 mm;
• hammer;
• level;
• grinder with a metal disc;
• polyurethane foam;
• spray bottle with water;
• dowel-nails (in our case, 120 mm long and 10 mm in diameter);
• hacksaw for metal;
• masking tape (if there is no protective film);
• screwdriver;
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
• spacer wedges.

Don't neglect your protective equipment. Be sure to wear gloves, and wear goggles when working with an angle grinder and a hammer drill.

Removing the old door

Using a pry bar, we dismantle the cash, if there is one. Having opened the door leaf approximately 90°, we slide the pry bar under it, closer to the side with the hinges and, lifting it, remove it. If the hinges are skewed or they are rusty and do not come off, you can try to unscrew them with a screwdriver or using a screwdriver. You can also simply cut the loops with a grinder.

We use a hacksaw to saw one of the frame posts and dismantle it using a pry bar. We have the upper cross member of the box behind the top of the side pillar, and the threshold behind the bottom. Finally, we dismantle the remaining rack.

It is advisable to unscrew or pull out all fasteners. If this is not possible, cut them with a grinder or a hacksaw, and hammer the protruding parts back into the wall. Remove loose plaster from the walls around the perimeter of the opening and clean the floor surface of debris.

Installing a new entrance door in an apartment

We insert the box into the opening, ours is monolithic, after first removing the door leaf from it. We set it according to level. First, apply a level to the side post on which the hinges are located, along the front and inside. We used a magnetic level. It is convenient for them to work with metal structures, since both hands remain free. The length should be from 400 to 800 mm. A level with a shorter length may cause an error, and a longer length may not be convenient to work with. In addition, with a level longer than 800 mm, it will be difficult to set the horizontal, because Usually the width of the door leaf at the doors in the apartment is 900 mm.

Installing the box level.

If necessary, to achieve the level, we hammer wedges between the wall and the frame, or the floor and the frame. Since our old door frame was made of wood, we did not prepare the wedges in advance, but made them out of it.

We use wooden wedges of the required size.

Having achieved the desired verticality and horizontality, we fix the box onto the mounting plate located at the top hinge. To do this, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the wall and drive a dowel-nail into it.

Hanging the door

It is advisable to immediately lubricate the hinges with machine oil. We check the level again. If necessary, add additional wedges.

After making sure that everything is in order, we fix the stand with hinges to the remaining mounting plates.

We close the door. Align the side post on the lock side. We make sure that the gap between the door leaf and the pillar is uniform over the entire height. To do this, we move the stand until we get the desired result. We check that the locks close and open freely. We attach the rack to the mounting plates by making holes in the wall with a hammer drill and driving in dowel nails.

Use a spray bottle to moisten the gap between the wall and the frame around the entire perimeter. Let the water absorb.

Fill the gap with foam. If you have no experience working with foam and the frame of the front door is not protected by film, then it is better to paste it around the perimeter with masking tape so as not to stain it with foam.

Close the door and let the foam dry for 24 hours. At this point, the installation of the entrance door to the apartment can be considered complete. In the future, we finish the entrance door slopes with plaster, plasterboard or panels.

The reliability of entrance doors depends not only on the quality of the design itself, but also on adherence to technology during installation. To perform the installation correctly and avoid serious mistakes, you should study the instructions in advance and carefully read each stage of the work. With this approach, making your own front door will not cause any difficulties, and the end result will delight you for many years.

Installation procedure

Replacing a door frame or installing doors in a new building includes several stages:

• taking measurements;
• preparation of the opening;
• installation of door structure;
• sealing cracks;
• finishing.

Each process should be performed with the highest possible quality, without haste, using reliable and proven materials. The door frame is fastened in various ways, so before installation you need to choose the most optimal one in order to save materials and time.

You should know that the manufacturer's warranty is not issued in case of self-installation, so if damage occurs during the installation process, you will have to repair it at your own expense.

To avoid buying a low-quality product, you need to carefully remove the protective film in the store, carefully check the door leaf and frame, and then re-glue the polyethylene with tape. You can finally remove the film only after completing installation and finishing - this way the surface will remain clean and undamaged.

You should also prepare in advance everything you need for work:

Measurements and preparation of the opening

To take measurements, the boundaries of the door opening must be very clearly visible. Often the box is covered with a large layer of plaster around the entire perimeter, which makes measurements difficult. Therefore, first, the platbands are removed from the tray, the excess solution is cleaned off, and if necessary, the threshold is dismantled. If the new box is wider than the previous one, you need to measure the length of the support beam above the opening. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the width of the door frame, otherwise the reliability of the fastening will be too low. When all measurements have been completed, you can begin preparing the opening.

Prices for entrance doors

Entrance doors

Step 1. Dismantling the trap

In an old brick building, dismantling work should be carried out carefully so as not to severely damage the masonry; the same applies to walls made of foam concrete. The door leaf is removed from the hinges, and then the loot is cut in two or three places with a grinder or hacksaw. Then the box is pryed with a crowbar and removed from the opening.

Step 2. Cleaning the opening

After removing the mortar, pieces of mortar remain along the perimeter of the opening, cracks and voids open in the masonry of the walls. Below the threshold, destruction is especially severe: brickwork crumbles, old beams rot. All this should be removed, the solution should be cleaned with a hammer drill, and the opening should be leveled over the entire area.

Step 3. Seal cracks and voids

Mix the cement mortar and rub over all small cracks. Deep cracks are filled with pieces of brick and covered with mortar. If you need to raise the floor, lay out a new brick base or make a screed. There is no need to level the walls of the opening at this stage, since minor damage to the surface is possible during installation. The main thing is that there are no voids left inside that allow cold to penetrate into the home.

Installation of entrance doors

When installing doors, you will need an assistant, because it is very difficult to lift and insert a heavy structure on your own, even though the frame and leaf are mounted separately. The presence of mounting ears on the frame and ready-made holes for wiring, which are made in the factory, will simplify the work.

Step 1. Installation of the box

The door leaf is removed from the hinges and set aside. The box is lifted and placed in the opening so that the door opens outward. It is very important to level the structure, otherwise it will close loosely or with difficulty, which is also undesirable.

It is necessary to check the vertical and horizontal of the box on each plane; If the protrusions in the opening interfere with alignment, they can be knocked down with a hammer or hammer drill.

To prevent the structure from moving during installation, its position is fixed with wooden pegs. It is advisable to have pegs of an even shape and in the form of wedges, then it is much easier to adjust the level. But it is not recommended to use nails for this - the box may move slightly, and you will have to level it again.

Step 2. Fastening the structure

The door frame can be secured in the opening in different ways, depending on the type of door and the material from which it is made. There must be at least 10 fixation points around the perimeter of the frame - 2 in the lower and upper parts, and 3 on both sides.

Option 1: fixation with anchors by the eyes.

This method is suitable for almost all designs; the lugs are not made together with the body, and are screwed to doors made of wood and plastic with self-tapping screws. The hammer drill is threaded through the eye and a hole is made in the wall to a depth of 15 cm. An anchor is inserted there and tightened with a socket wrench. The anchor can be replaced with a steel pin made of reinforcement with a cross-section of 10 mm, sharpening one edge and flattening the second with a hammer. The pin is driven into the hole until it stops and welded to the eye.

Option 2: installing fasteners through the canvas. With this method, holes are made in the end of the loot; pins or bolts are dug into the wall in the same way and fixed directly to the box. In a wooden structure, it is recommended to drill small recesses where the bolt heads will be hidden.

Fastening a metal door with anchor bolts

Option 3: fixation with metal clamps. This method is used for installation in buildings with monolithic walls; The main convenience is that there is no need to drill or drill holes. The door frame is held in place from the outside by a special edging, and from the inside by metal hooks welded to the inside of the door frame.

The side on which the loops are located is secured first; it is necessary to fasten from the top point to the bottom. After tightening the first bolt, you should check the position of the box with a level to avoid distortion. The vertical is controlled in the same way after the second and third bolts. When this side is fixed, hang the door leaf and check the tension of the frame.

If the door opens easily, there are no deformations or gaps, you can attach the second side. The canvas is removed again and the vertical post of the loot, as well as the threshold and lintel, are fixed with bolts, not forgetting to control the position of the frame with a level. Again, hang the canvas, check the ease of movement and tension. If the tension is too strong, loosen the fasteners a little.

Video - Installing the front door yourself

Step 3: Completing installation

Remove the cloth again so as not to stain the surface. The heads of the anchor bolts are covered with special plugs that match the color of the door leaf. The surface of the box is sealed with masking tape, then the technological gaps and indentations are blown with foam.

Very often, instead of foam, cement mortar mixed with alabaster is used - this increases the reliability of the structure many times over. The solution is mixed until loose and the gap between the wall and the frame is tightly packed around the entire perimeter.

After the solution has hardened, the opening is puttied and plastered, the tape is removed from the box, and the canvas is hung. Carefully check the operation of locks, handles, and ease of movement. To make the doorway look neat, it is necessary to install platbands on the outside. They are screwed onto a wooden base with self-tapping screws, the caps are sunk into the wood and covered with putty. If the structure is metal, the platbands are fastened with bolts or rivets. They are made from the inside of the opening, giving the doors a decorative and aesthetic appearance.

Video - Do-it-yourself front door installation

Video - Installation of plasterboard slope on entrance doors