In our hectic and unsafe age, care must be taken that the front door is a reliable guard for our home. Not only the door should be reliable, but also the door frame.

Quite often, in apartment buildings, door frames are fixed in such a way that it is not worth making a lot of effort, as you can pull the box together with the door from its place. So the first thing fixing the door frame so that it is rigidly connected to the wall. To do this, we drill holes in the vertical racks of the door frame and in the wall.

We drill the rack with an ordinary drill, and the wall with a victorious tip. The diameter of the hole on the box should be 1 cm, and in the wall the drill should go to a depth of 5-7 cm. Now we drive steel rods into the holes obtained, if the walls are wooden, then first we insert metal tubes into the holes, and then rods into them.

In most cases, the door has 2 hinges, for reinforcement we install 1-2 more. We fasten the hinges to the door frame with hardened screws (this will give additional reinforcement to the hinges). The screws must pass through the door frame and enter the wall by at least 3 cm.

There is one more additional protection of the front door - anti-burglary paws that insure the hinges on the door. These steel strips are bolted to the door leaf, and when it is closed, they rest against the holes on the box.

Also help to strengthen the door two pins with a diameter of 1 cm, which must be fixed on the door from the side of the hinges. The essence of these pins is as follows: having made a sufficient hole in the door frame, we insert a piece of steel pipe into them, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the pins, and when the door closes, the pins enter these steel bushings and fix the door. Such fixation will make it more difficult to break the door in comparison with unreliable hinges. But the best result in strengthening the door will be the replacement of ordinary hinges with special anti-squeeze hinges, which have both pins and corresponding holes.

Strengthening the door frame in place of the locking plate will help steel corner. It is installed vertically along the entire height of the box. The corner will be invisible on the door frame if it is cut flush into the jamb.

You can paint it with the same paint as the platband is painted. Before installing the corner, we select holes for the tongues of the locks and make mounting holes. The corner is fastened with screws, the length of which is not less than 3.5 cm.

Made of hardened steel, it will also allow you to slightly strengthen the front door. We fasten the chain to the door jamb with screws, and the locking pan to the door itself horizontally. This is necessary so that the chain can be removed only by closing the door. But this is not a very reliable protection, since it can be bitten with wire cutters, or simply pulled out. Therefore, it is better to install a special door stopper, which is more reliable than the chain. You can also make a peephole, which is more appropriate to install at a height that will be convenient for all family members.

Installing the peephole is quite simple, you just need to drill a hole and insert it. We recommend taking a panoramic peephole, which has a wide field of view and closes from the inside.

But the best protection for the front door will be a second steel door with a secure lock (by the way, a hardwood door is also suitable for this purpose), which can be ordered and installed on top of yours.

For example, you have an ordinary front door to an apartment, which was installed during the construction of the house. Why is she bad? The fact that such doors were designed and manufactured twenty-five years ago, at a time when criminals were not as well equipped and did not act as brazenly as they do now. However, they still manage to put such doors in remake houses. Times have changed, but doors remain the same.

And why do you then buy fancy locks if the door is dying. The lock just won't open. They push the door harder, and that's all ... Well, did you convince me? Then let's go to your front doors and take a critical look at them.

The least reliable and most common are hollow doors, consisting of boards or even bars connected on both sides with fiberboard sheets. True, other designs are not much stronger. Such doors are often upholstered on the outside with a decorative rail. This finish is pleasant to the eye, but almost does not add strength. It is much better to upholster the door on top with sheets of tin and already on top with a rail. In this case, it is desirable to bend the sheets around the doors and break through from the end and from the back. Then it will be difficult to tear them off. It is even more reliable to use sheets of iron 1-1.5 mm thick instead of tin.

Door hinges should be preferred where the rods rest against the plug and will not fall out of the grooves when shaking and hitting. It is advisable to strengthen the jamb to which the hinges are attached with a metal strip: Very often, criminals plant the door not from the side of the locks, but from the opposite side, where the hinges are located, which the owner simply did not guess to strengthen. Three loops are preferable to two. There is another method that does not require any additional devices and therefore is accessible to everyone by strengthening the doors from the non-working side. It is necessary to drill one or more through holes in the hinges. Only necessarily in two wings of the loop and symmetrically, i.e. strictly against each other. Then screw the screws into the jamb or door. Half.

So that they protrude one and a half centimeters outward. And cut off heads. Now, when the door is closed, the pins of the screws will enter the holes opposite them and go deep into the jamb. And thus fix the door. Even if the attackers cut the loop rods. Strongly weaken the door set close to each other locks. This is the case when the more locks, the easier it is to open the door. The optimal distance between them should not be less than 40-50 centimeters. Under the locks, to make it harder to knock them out, you can put a thin metal plate. And if the lock is mortise, with exactly the same plate, but larger in size, reinforce the inside of the door.

Strengthening the door frames of the entrance doors to the apartment.

It is highly desirable to strengthen the door frame. With strong blows or the use of jacks by criminals, the doors often pop out along with the jambs, that is, the locks remain in place, and the way inside is open. There are many ways to strengthen door frames. The simplest is attaching metal squares around the perimeter of the door, the protruding side of which is nailed with long pins or dowels directly to the wall. I also recommend re-hanging the door from the inside out.

All over the world, most entrance doors open to the stairwell, and only here - to the apartment. Probably, to make it more convenient for law enforcement agencies to break into the apartments of interest to them. It is not difficult to reattach, you just need to select the grooves on the outer jamb. It is almost impossible to knock out a door that opens outwards if the jambs are reliable. In addition, such a door will free up additional space for you in the corridor.

Second metal entrance doors.

The now fashionable second metal doors are quite reliable. If the thickness of the sheet from which the door is made is a millimeter, it will be able to withstand point-blank shots from smoothbore guns and low-powered pistols. 3-4 millimeters, if the steel is more or less decent, will protect against bullets fired from the TT. Well, if you want the door to hold back the pressure of the Kalashnikov, then go to specialized stores. There are doors like this. True, every fortified door, like the notorious medal, has a downside.

If you lose the keys, then you will have to open it with the help of jackhammers and an autogen. When hanging a metal door, it is imperative to ensure that its frame is attached not to the jambs, but directly to the wall, with the maximum recession of the mounting brackets or pins into the monolith of bricks or concrete. Otherwise, such a door loses its meaning. It is simply turned out of the wall along with the frame with a banal crowbar.

Strengthening the walls of the entrance doors and installing additional doors.

When storing especially valuable things in an apartment, it is advisable to strengthen not only the door and jambs, but also the walls adjacent to them, so that criminals do not take them apart brick by brick. Sometimes people who do not want to draw attention to their apartment install reinforced doors inside, under the cover of ordinary ones. Wise foresight. In many nine and sixteen-story buildings in front of the entrance to the apartment there is a small corridor leading to the stairwell and the elevator. If you close it with a door, you will get another line of defense against the robbers.

The second, additional door should not be inferior in strength to the first, apartment door. Otherwise, you will trap yourself - you will hear a bell, open an armored apartment door and find yourself in a corridor, in front of a door that a criminal can easily knock out with his foot. That is why both doors must be of equal strength. And both have eyes. Or you will have to come up with a device for automatically opening the corridor door when the apartment is closed.

All, both the first and second, metal doors should have easily opening locks, so that, for example, in time they do not become an insurmountable obstacle for a person seeking salvation. On the front door, be sure to install a peephole with a wide (150-180 degrees) viewing angle and a door chain. In an apartment where, in addition to adults, children live, it is better to install two eyes. One is for adults. The other is for children.

So that they do not fence improvised stairs, trying to reach the “adult” eye with their eyes. In order not to make holes in the door too often, make eyes a little “for growth”. However, they can be replaced by a pair of TV cameras. Unless, of course, you have something to protect and have something to protect. From the inside, on the door in case of attempts to force entry into your apartment, it does not hurt to install a powerful latch. And, of course, the castle.

Based on the materials of the book "School of Survival in the Conditions of the Economic Crisis".
Andrei Ilyichev.

Many of us have wondered, reinforcing the front door, making it stronger and stronger. Installing a modern door system is the easiest and fastest way to secure your home. However, this method requires considerable material costs.

You can also strengthen the front door on your own at home. The main advantage of the proposed methods is their relatively low cost.

In typical multi-storey buildings, the arrangement of vestibules has become widespread. If the features of the staircase allow you to fence off an additional room in front of the apartment, this should not be neglected. Installing a reliable door with a high-quality lock in the vestibule significantly reduces the risks associated with breaking into an apartment.

If you are thinking about reinforcing the front door of your apartment, there are several factors to consider. Apartments in which the front door opens into the room are the least secure. Also, in the construction of houses, the cheapest door systems made of fiberboard (fibreboard) are usually used, which have extremely low operational and protective properties.

If you decide to hang the front door so that it opens outward, you should take into account that there should be no obstacles in the way of the door when it is opened at least 90 degrees. Also, the door in the new position should not create obstacles for other residents. Under these conditions, the door can be rearranged so that it opens towards the landing. Also, the installation of an additional front door can help increase the protective properties.

One of the measures to strengthen the front door is the installation of a special lining made of steel sheet on the keyholes. Such metal plates to some extent protect the door lock from unauthorized opening and entry into the apartment. The size of the metal lining may vary, but the main thing is that all keyholes are closed with it. Usually the thickness of the steel sheet for the plate is about 3mm, and it is bolted to the inside of the door.

Another way to protect front doors is to completely upholster them with sheet metal. This method has shown its effectiveness, especially if the dimensions of the sheet are selected in such a way that its edges extend beyond the door. For this purpose, sheets of steel or ductile aluminum alloys of the AMtsM brand (aluminum-manganese alloy) can be used.

To strengthen the door instead of a steel sheet, you can use a metal mesh. A strong metal mesh fixed on the inside of the door increases its protective properties. Additionally, the door around the perimeter can be upholstered with tin strips for a more secure fixation of the mesh. You can finish the door trim by covering it with any upholstery material, hiding the reinforcement elements inside.

Criminal statistics show that burglars most often enter someone else's home by breaking the front door. Particularly "neat" thieves pick up master keys to locks. The most impatient knock them out with a crowbar or wring out the jambs.

In this material, we will not touch on antediluvian wooden doors, which can often be knocked out even with a shoulder or a strong kick. We are talking about seemingly reliable, with all sorts of guarantees, metal doors, which also often “pass in” to intruders. And there is only one way out - to try additionally and as firmly as possible to strengthen the passage to your apartment.

An effective way to strengthen the castle with overlays

But even the most reliable lock is unlikely to resist forceful methods of breaking, such as drilling, knocking out a larva (cylinder). In this case, a good option would be to install special armor pads on the lock that protect its “core”.

Quality linings are made from high quality steel, resistant to corrosion and wear. To improve reliability, they are subjected to various types of processing.

According to the type of installation, overhead and mortise linings are distinguished. Overhead are installed over the mask on the door leaf. For mortise, a hole is made in the outer sheet. Such protection, covering the larva, is pressed directly against the lock body.

Reinforcement of door jambs with a steel frame

However, even the strongest door with a good lock can be squeezed out or torn out by a crowbar if the “paw” of the latter is inserted into the gap between the door and the jamb. To counter this, special frames or plates with pins and reciprocal holes are used to fix the door in the closed position.

Temporarily, the door can be strengthened from the outside along the perimeter with a steel corner, which will prevent the penetration of the crowbar into the gap, and on the inside it is required to install a steel sheet by passing hemispherical head bolts through it and steel corners.

To strengthen the door in the box, holes are drilled equal to the diameters of the dowels, which must be inserted into the brickwork or concrete wall.

Then, with a drill bit with a diameter equal to the diameter of the dowel, the wall is drilled to a depth corresponding to the length of the screw, minus the thickness of the door frame. A screw with a mounted dowel is driven into the hole with a hammer and tightened with a screwdriver.

A frame made of a steel corner, reinforced around the perimeter of the door, will protect the door from deformation when trying to wring it out of the jambs. Steel corners are fixed with clamps and holes for bolts are drilled every 12-15 cm.

Steel corners are attached to the outside of the door as close as possible to the frame, but so as not to impede the movement of the door itself. Holes are also drilled from the inside (to avoid damage to the surface of the door), and the bolts are screwed in with a hemispherical head to the outside.

On the door frame on the hinge side, steel plates are fixed with a tight fit. A plate with a pin is placed on the door frame and a contour is drawn along which a chisel is selected to a depth equal to the thickness of the plate. Then drill holes for the screws and put a plate with a pin.

At the final stage, the door is slightly covered and marks are received on its box for installing plates with a counter hole. These plates are also installed flush (level) with the surface of the box.

Door armor

An equally effective way to strengthen the front door is to make it armored.

To begin with, you will need to purchase a steel sheet the size of your door and 1.5 mm thick. Since the weight of such a sheet is considerable (12 kg / sq. M), the introductory door must be durable and with a reinforced frame.

At the first stage, the lock is taken out, then the door is removed, which is laid on wooden bars.

The steel sheet together with the door is drilled through with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the bolts. The drill is set to such a depth that only the tip of the drill comes out from the back. After all the holes have been made, the door is turned over and drilling is completed.

Then the bolt is inserted into the holes, leaving the hemispherical heads outside. The nuts are tightened from the side of the armor plate and tightened. This position will not allow you to unscrew the bolts from the outside.

After that, the door is laid on the bars face up and holes are made according to the shape of the handle and the cylinder of the lock with a drill-mill or a Forstner drill. The door is turned over and the excess metal is cut out with a chisel along the contours obtained.

At the final stage, holes are drilled for the screws of the lock face. Finally, the latter is inserted, the larvae are applied and the handles are fixed.

In an ordinary modern apartment, the front door is a wooden frame, sheathed on both sides with plywood or hardboard. Breaking it or squeezing it out with the box is not a big deal. In short, we need to think about how to strengthen it. We advise you to do so. Remove the door from its hinges, lay it horizontally on two stools and carefully, using a chisel, separate the top sheet of the door skin. Now we have to fill the internal space of the frame. To do this, you will need edged boards or timber of the appropriate thickness. Assemble them into a single block and insert into the free space. The block is fastened with nails or long screws through the end of the frame. All joints additionally coat with wood glue. And when the glue dries, nail the top sheet of the door skin. The door is ready, you can put it in place.

Try to immediately eliminate a number of minor defects. Excessive friction can be eliminated by rubbing the surfaces with laundry soap. If this is not enough, the edge of the door is leveled with a planer. But first, check if the hinges are loosely screwed on. Perhaps the friction caused the door to drop. Tighten the screws. And if they turn, do not stay in the box, replace them with longer ones or insert wooden plugs into the holes on wood glue or PVA and after a while, after drying, screw the screws again. The door can still be raised by placing wire washers between the hinge elements.

After hanging the door on the hinges, check its operation. It should close easily and not touch the jamb.

The next stage is the strengthening of the castle. Prepare two steel or aluminum sheets 1.5-2mm thick. Select their dimensions in such a way as to close the installation site of the lock (Fig. 1). The sheet located on the inside should be wider by the thickness of the door and bent at an angle of 90 degrees. The marking of the holes corresponds to the dimensions and configuration of the keyhole tongues and handles. After laying the sheets on the door, pull them together with a clamp and drill through holes. Then cut the threads in the holes of the outer sheet. And on the inside, drill them 0.5 mm and drill them. In a word, lay the sheets on the door and tighten with screws. Check the operation of the locks and eliminate, if necessary, jamming.

The door jamb adjacent to the door on the side of the locks can be reinforced with a metal corner bent from a steel strip 1-1.5 mm thick. Before installation, holes for the tongues of the locks and mounting holes are selected in it. Install the corner on the screws 35-40 mm long.

To strengthen the door frame, prepare four steel pins with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a length of 200 mm, two pieces of a metal tube with an inner diameter of 15-20 mm and a length of 25-30 mm. With a long drill bit in the jamb, drill holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a depth of 200 mm and hammer metal pins into them (Fig. 2). The pins driven into the jamb from the side of the hinges should protrude by 10 mm ... Then, at the end of the door opposite the pins, drill holes for the outer diameter of the tubes. Hammer them in the butt. When closing the door, the pins must freely enter them (Fig. 1)

The tubes can be replaced with steel plates with pin holes (Fig. 4). Such a simple device will not allow you to either remove the closed door from its hinges or squeeze it out.

Let's talk about another way of fastening. Through holes are drilled in the box and wall opposite each other. Steel bolts of suitable length and a diameter of 8-10 mm are inserted into them. Bolt nuts must be locked on the inside of the door. The bolts are tightened with soft steel wire from the inside and outside. Under the wire ties in the wall, it is necessary to hollow out the grooves, which are then plastered with mortar and putty (Fig. 3).

And finally, remember a simple and useful truth: the more locks there are in the doors and apartment, the harder it is for a stranger to get into it.

V.KONOVALOV

ADDITIONAL DOOR LOCKS

Non-standard (home-made or custom-made) locks are much more difficult to open. And if they have two or three degrees of protection, then only the owner who has the key can open them.

A small disclaimer. If we have an iron front door installed, then it is impossible to open it with a crowbar (crowbar). A wooden (even massive) door will not withstand a crowbar. What can be done to securely strengthen a wooden door? It is equipped as follows. The door jamb (door frame) is reinforced on both sides with a steel corner 45x40 (45x45.40x25) as shown in Fig. 1 a. Fixing bolts (in increments of 30-40 cm) must be securely fastened to the wall. It is better to put them on epoxy putty.

The doors themselves are additionally reinforced with three transverse steel strips I on each side of the door (Fig. 1.6). Overlays 2 are made from the same strip. Strips with a pitch of 20 - 25 cm are tightened with bolts with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm with a semicircular head without a slot. If there are no such bolts, then proceed as follows. In the outer strips, the mounting holes for the bolts are cut as shown in Fig. 1, p. A stud with a diameter of at least 2 mm is placed under the head of each bolt. Nuts are located on the inside of the door.

The locks are attached directly to strip 1. therefore, strips 1 (or one of them) must have a width depending on the design of the lock. After installing the locks, the door is upholstered (insulated) and thereby hide the results of the work.

More on locks. Once the author had to listen to the revelation of the former "bear cub", at that time - a plumber. He, who could open any standard lock in a matter of minutes, failed: he could not open the mortise lock, the key to which was lost by the mistress. Having visited this apartment after some time (it was necessary to repair some of the plumbing), he first examined the castle. What was found? The lock embedded in the door is locked in the *open* position. A padlock is installed behind the door (Fig. 2, a). The key passed through the first lock and opened the second.

If you do not lock the first lock in the “open” position, then an experienced burglar will discover this trick and understand everything. To enter the second degree of protection, it is only necessary to hang a slightly spring-loaded curtain 1 (Fig. 2.6) made of sheet metal 0.8 - 1.0 mm thick on the overhead lock. It can be moved to the side if the key 2 has a specially made bevel 3. The stop 4 fixes the curtain 1 in such a position that the bevel 3 of the key 2 can move (turn) the curtain I to the right and get into the overhead lock.

One of the non-standard locks (Fig. 3a) has a kind of key 10 with a curved beard. The lock works as follows (the lock cover is conventionally removed). To open the lock, insert the KEY with the beard down, insert it into the lock so that the key beard comes out on the other side. Turn the key clockwise by about 135° and feed it towards you. In this case, the key beard enters the hole 1 of the latch 5. Turning the key clockwise, we move the latch to the right and open the lock.

Consider the design of the castle. If the lock is installed on a steel strip 1 (Fig. 1.6), then it will serve as the base of the lock. On strip 1 (Fig. 3, a), two lugs 3 and 4 made of sheet steel 2.5-3.0 mm thick are fixed with rivets 2. In lugs 3 and 4, a valve 5 with a section of 35x4 mm can move. The movement of the latter is limited in both directions by a rod 6 with a diameter of 8-10 mm. It is attached to the steel strip I and screwed to the lug 4 with a nut 7. The valve 5 has a slot 8 in which the rod 6 is passed through.

To open and close the lock from inside the room, there is a rod-handle 9 that goes into the slot of the cover. The cover has one more cutout (in Fig. 3, and it is given by a dash-dotted line) for manipulating the key when opening and closing the lock.

One degree of protection of this lock is the shape of the key 10. By installing a special latch latch on the lock (Fig. 3.6), we will introduce another degree of protection. The latch is fixed on the other side of strip 1 and recessed into the door itself (wooden door). A base 2 is installed to the strip 1 on two screws with spring washers. The metal rod 3 of the latch with one end enters the partition 4 (the base, like the partition, is made of sheet steel with a thickness of about 1 mm). The other end of the rod 3 enters the hole of the strip 1 and the valve 5 (the lock is closed and the valve 5 cannot be moved). When the lock is opened, the key bit 6 enters the valve hole from the inside, sinks the latch rod 3, compressing the spring, and releases the valve 5. The lock can be opened.

If you want to have a lock that locks both sides of the door, then the lock shown in fig. 4a. Two long valves I and 2 can then move in three lugs 3.

The right valve is composite, paired or riveted from two segments (their connection is shown in Fig. 4, a with an asterisk). Gate valves 1 and 2 are steel with a section of 50x4 mm. Eyelets (top lining) are made of sheet steel with a thickness of about 2 mm.

In both valves 1 and 2 there are holes 4 and 5 with teeth in the middle. Moreover, the teeth of the valve 1 are located on top, and those of the valve 2 are located below. With the teeth of both valves 1 and 2, the gear drum 6 is engaged. It is machined from steel on a lathe. The teeth of the drum 6 are machined with a cutter with a thickness of 4 mm. All dimensions of the drum are given in fig. 4.6. A round hole in drum b, marked with an asterisk (using needle files), is processed into a square. This is the key hole. It may also have other configurations.

The necks of the toothed drum are made in such a way that on the one hand the neck is flush into the hole of the strip 7 (the base of the lock), and on the other hand it is flush into the upper plate of the middle lug 3.

The toothed drum, the teeth of which are slightly overwhelmed, rotates with a four-sided key 8. Moreover, when turning it clockwise, the valve 2 has to the right, and the valve I has to the left. The stacks of both valves are extended from the extreme eyes 3 and go into the corresponding holes in the jamb. The door will be securely closed.

For a full guarantee against breaking a wooden door, locks with a so-called inclined latch are installed. Two such locks are shown below. A feature of such locks is that the latch of a closed lock is securely fixed in the lock and in the door jamb. So an attacker acting with a crowbar must break the steel latch of the lock, and this is beyond his power.

The first lock with a cap latch is shown in fig. 5, a. On the basis 1, on four rivets 2, two lugs 3 and 4 are each installed. The upper linings at the lugs are made of a steel sheet 2.5 - 3.0 mm thick. In the eyes 3 and 4, a cap latch 5 with a section of 40x4 mm can move. The movement of this latch to the right and left is limited by the rod 6 (its diameter is not less than 8 mm), it is securely fixed in the base 1 and in the lug 4. There is a corresponding hole 7 in the latch 5.

In the cap latch 5, three washed down were made. The first 8 is for the key, the second 9 is for fixing the latch 5 in the lock, the third 10 is for throwing the latch 5 onto the rod 11 (steel, with a diameter of at least 8 mm), securely fixed in the door jamb.

On fig. 5 the lock is closed. When turning the key 12 clockwise, the latch 5 first rises up. At the same time, she will disengage from the rod 11 and the latch 9. Then she will go to the right and open the door.

The first degree of protection of this lock is a non-standard key. The second is a special stopper 13, which fixes the latch 5 in the lower (closed) position. On fig. 5, and hole 13 (from where the stopper extends) is shaded. The place where the stopper opening device is brought out must be masked. For example, this is an ordinary long screw. A hole is drilled in the door (Fig. 5, b). A threaded bushing I is pressed into it. Screw 2 is screwed into sleeve 1. The hole in the door is masked with insert 3: a tube made of thin sheet metal with a hat from a decorative nail soldered to it (the whole door is covered with the same nails).

The stopper actuation device can have many variations. Bowden cable, electromagnet, etc. can be used here.

The second lock with a cap latch (Fig. 6, a) has an original drive. Its basis is a truncated gear 1. In the figure, the lock is closed. If you insert the key 2 into the quadrangular hole of the gear 1 (the hole in it can be triangular, oval and other, depending on the shape adopted, rotate it counterclockwise with the keys, then the heck 3 first rises and disengages from the rod 4 (fixed in the door jamb) and latch 5. Then it will move to the left until the door opens.

The lock stopper (the second degree of protection) is shown in fig. 6.6. A washer 2 with a small central hole is fixed at the end of the truncated gear 1. A flat spring 3 is pressed against it. At one end, the spring is fixed on the lock cover. At the other end, it has a locking tooth 4 (there is a hole in the cover for it), which fixes the truncated gear, preventing the lock from opening. When the key is inserted into the lock, the thin rod 6 of the key (Fig. b, a) will raise the spring 3, and the locking tooth 4 will release the truncated gear 1, allowing the lock to be opened.

All locks must be provided with devices that lock the deadbolt (latch) at night. Locks must have a handle-rod (see Fig. 3, a) for opening and closing the lock from inside the room.

Attention!!! The information contained on this page was added from unverified sources, may be out of date and contain errors. Therefore, it is provided for informational purposes only.